I'm still searching for a .PDF of the CRF230L workshop manual. Have the owners manual already, but nothing substitutes for a full service manual. Haven't stumbled into a downloadable version just yet, but I'll keep after it....Probably the best thing you can do at this point would be a full service so you know everything is fresh. A good time to invest in a workshop manual since it sounds like you found a keeper.
The other thing would be to set the sag at the rear, which will give you an idea if the bikes suspension is sprung to cover your weight. It may have been changed since original owner was light. Looks like original shock spring. This may be shown in owners manual but should be in workshop manual..
Thanks JD. Ray clearly knows these bikes extremely well and he's more than willing to help others get up to speed. That's much appreciated....Ray is a wealth of knowledge on CRF230's , so if he says to do anything , its probably the correct thing to do..
I'll add that to my 'to do' list for the bike. Going to start on some of these things in the morning once my chores are done. Interestingly enough, the bike runs extremely well here in the high country. I'll check with the previous owners and see if they had any adjustments made for riding at 6600 ft and higher. All their work, except for common maintenance and service procedures, was done by the local Honda dealer. So the bike may already have been set up for higher altitudes. A phone call tomorrow will clear that up then I'll proceed from there....our resident carb guru is Leardriver , if anyone here knows what your jetting should be on that bike , it will be him , maybe PM him and see what his suggestion is , click on the link below and where it says Send Private Message , click on that and send him a PM with your elevation (elevation your at and will be riding at , so he has a range) , temps , and current jetting specs such as Pilot,Main,Fuel Screw setting (how many turns out) and he should be able to guide you in the right direction
https://www.crfsonly.com/forum/memberli ... le&u=14707
Ray, the original owner says he never made jetting changes. The bike ran well for him at his altitude (he's a 1000 ft lower than we are here on the Rim), and it runs equally as well at our place -- no loss of power that I notice...Yeah Jim I was thinking at 6600 feet the lean factory tune wouldn't be too far off. Maybe tweak the idle mixture screw to see what works.
If you do get more than 3 turns out or less than 3/4 turn out then a change of idle jet will need to happen..
..OK, the brake lever isn't bent. Must be the angle of the photo. Pulled the end cap off the muffler and found only the spark arrestor inside as you noted. Not about to take that out...Well if I understand the differences between the carbs of the F vs the L you actually have a different type of carby. The 230F has a 26mm piston type whereas the 230L in 2008 has the 30mm CV (constant velocity) carby. So do not go pulling things off it thinking it is the former type. If you find it goes well you might be best not to play with it till you run it a while and see how you like it.
Now the CV carbs are pretty forgiving normally, and you would have to have a good look at the airbox and post up some pictures of the airbox before you think about opening it up. Be interested on your top speed.
The parts diagram for the muffler does not show a removal baffle at pipe end, just a spark arrestor, which should always be left in. Don't want to start a bushfire. I would investigate what is on you bikes tail pipe and how hard it is to remove.
Hope that gives you some food for thought.
If you scroll to bottom of site page you will see the Yeltrik site OEM parts where you can look at parts diagrams and order genuine parts.
Is the brake lever bent or is it just the angle of the photo?..
..Isn't that the truth! ..Quite a pile of goodies you got there.
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