[offrdrdr]

hey guys and gals, i raced an enduro yesterday with my new rekluse pro. i seem to stall the bike more than i did with the stock clutch. i have it set up per the 06 250x tuning chart (25 steel balls and 5 tungsten carbide), with the c150-l4 1.5 brown spring. i did notice that with the bike at idle (apprx 1500rpm)the bike would try to creep. when i would stall the bike seem to be on a nasty up hill climb, rocks, roots etc.. having to use throttle control, you guys know, on the gas, back off then right back on. i have read through my install instructions again and i'm not sure i understand how to get the clutch drag out other than idle adjustment. maybe it's just me? joe, agent, ken and all you rekluse guys and gals your help and knowledge will be most appreciated.

[JAWS]

Sorry, offrdrdr, I am not a Rekluse guy just yet. I am waiting for my new clutch parts to arrive before installing. Xman, Dobent, HKEPUK, Xgiant, etc can help you out.
Joe

[offrdrdr]

i talked with the guys at rekluse today and they gave me 3 scenarios to try. the guys at rekluse were very helpful. thanks anyway joe.[/b]

[JAWS]

Share the scenariios with us if you can.
Joe

[crfsonly]

joe...sorry to only be replying now. not sure what rekluse told you but you are on the right track..it should not creep on idle. also, it takes some time to "run-in" the clutch. once it's run-in and adjustments are correct you won't be stalling like you experienced.

let us know what changes you make and how it goes.

ken

[offrdrdr]

i will let you guys know what i come up with.

[redrider666]

Hey! I have the rekluse pro installed in my 250X and know exactly what you're talking about. What works for me is adjusting the fuel screw. There seems to be a sweet spot where the bike no longer stalls. If you're a little rich or a little lean then it will tend to stall in those inconvenient spots. I have had no problem getting mine dialed in and rarely stall. Maybe once a ride if that and all I ride in is tight nasty logs, roots, climbs and terrain better suited for a trials bike. I sit the bike on level ground and drag my front brake a bit then blip the throttle while in first gear. Just a small quick blip. If it stalls then I kinow I'm not quite spot on so I adjust accordingly. Repeat until the bike can take a quick blip with the brake on and not stall. A CRF's Only fuel screw is an aboslute must as temperature and elevation changes play a roll every ride and a quarter to an eigth of a turn is sometimes necessary.

Hope this helps.

[offrdrdr]

hey redrider the guys at rekluse mentioned that also, so how many turns is your fuel screw out? also i'm at an elevation on 1024ft. i do have the crf's only fuel screw. thanks redrider for your help.

[offrdrdr]

redrider, which spring are you using and what ball arrangement, 25 steel and 5 tungsten or 30 steel and no tungsten etc... thanks again for your help!

[redrider666]

I'm using the 25 steel and 5 tungsten for the harder engagement rate. I am using the Brown spring for a medium engagement RPM. Happy with that setup.

I have the JD jetting kit installed with the red needle in the 5th position. 160 main. 42 pilot. Airbox mod as per JD. Stock exhaust with the whole baffle pulled out. Did the O-ring mod as per JD as well (definitely a must). Air filter screen removed.

Couldn't tell you how many turns out I have my fuel screw anymore, but i'm guessing around 2 is a good spot to start. Shouldn't be more than a quarter turn either way from that. I'm running around similiar elevation (500' - 1500') with temps this time of year between 65 - 80.

I also have a Boyesen Quickshot installed, but couldn't really tell the difference between not having it on and having it on. The o-ring mod was the biggest change to cleaning up the jetting in the lower part of the rpm range. Zero off idle bog now, which I'm thinking might be important with the Rekluse system.

As for dialing in the fuel screw, I also pay close attention to how it starts after I kill the engine for a couple minutes. If it fires immediately, maybe I'm a little rich. If it has to crank for a second or two, maybe I'm a little lean. I'm no expert and this doesn't seem super scientific, but it lets we know which way to start turning the fuel scew sometimes.

Of course all these adjustments should be made after the bike is good and warm and taken for a 5 - 10 minute rip. Hope this helps.

Anymore questions just PM me.

[redrider666]

Oh yeah! One more thing. Make sure your clutch is adjusted as per the Rekluse instructions. Lots of slack!! Too little and the clutch can't engage properly. This doesn't seem like it would add to your problem, but I figured I would just throw it out there.

[offrdrdr]

redrider, i also am using the 25/5 set up with the brown spring with the jd kit set up the same as you. i will double check my measurements per rekluse. i will also play with the fuel screw. Thanks for your input and time. if i have anymore questions i'll pm you.

[Coastal]

I've been using the 30 steel ball setup for my 250X and it's very responsive--I might try replacing 5 for the tungsten to see what the difference is. I managed to stall it twice or so in some pretty brutal terrain, but I doubt any setup would have helped in those situations. For anyone else using the stock clutch cover, I noticed that more extensive reductions in the casting was required. I had reduced the areas as indicated in the instructions, however after a trial run I noticed scoring of the cover in other areas and the telltale metal flecks in the oil. This was not due to the screws backing out. Using my dremel I relieved the worn areas and haven't had a problem yet. I've recently added the left hand rear brake (with 2 finger clutch) and it's pretty sweet.

[offrdrdr]

hey, just wanted to update everyone on my stalling situation with the rekluse pro. the set up for my riding style and terrain is 25 steel and 5 tungsten balls with the red spring and the air screw at 2.5 turns. i went from skeptical to all smiles. thanks redrider666 for your input.