[KEVINWHEATCROFT]

I need Help!!

I have an 06' 250X with only 125 miles on it. Right from the get go, it had a bog. I heard the Boyesen Quick Shot would help--put it on--no difference. So i bought the Scary-Fast Power-Now valve, maybe a little better now. I have followed all the installation instructions to the letter, but i still have a noticeable bog when i twist on it hard, then it takes right off--

Does anyone have any advice??

thanks,
Kevin W

[JAWS]

Have you jetted or opened the intake, etc? Where is your fuel screw set? Tells us all of the mods you've made other than the ones above. What altitude?, ect. ect.
Joe

[KEVINWHEATCROFT]

I have not done any other engine/exhaust/carb mods other than the AP cover and the power-now valve. I adjusted the pilot screw as directed in the Boyesen instructions, it is 2 1/2 turns out, (I have tried the pilot at all positions at 1/4 turn intervals) I haven't opened the air box, but i did try opening the air filter door and even unscrewed the filter and moved it away from the box itself a little bit and gased it--still bogged. I am around 200' above sea level.

thanks, Kevin

[BigD]

What it does sitting in place doesn't really matter, you need to have a load on the bike to really tell if the bog is fixed.
Get the jetting kit and your problems will disappear. It's a piece of cake to install. And open the Airbox up. If you fuel screw is already out 2 1/2 turns you may need to go up one on your pilot jet.

[JAWS]

These bikes are delivered in a very lean condition. The JD kit that BigD was alluding to will have everything you need to make your bike rip. You can try to jet it yourself, but the kit is a one-stop solution. It also includes instructions to open your airbox and an o-ring mod for the acelerator pump arms that changes the pump timing and helps with the bog. BigD was also correct about the bog at rest. You don't need to worry about that one. It is normal for these carbs. The bog that you get while riding and snapping the throttle will be the one you can fix.

Check this out:
http://www.crfsonly.com/catalog/product ... 601b5cc73f

I suggest that you also change your fuel screw to something that is much easier to adjust than stock:

http://www.crfsonly.com/catalog/product ... 601b5cc73f

This little item makes the install of the filter screw a lot easier as well:

http://www.crfsonly.com/catalog/product ... 601b5cc73f

Joe

[KEVINWHEATCROFT]

thanks a million guys, i am taking my bike out this Friday and will be able to see what is really going on with my dreaded BOG, that fuel screw looks like a must have item, and i will also get that jet kit coming.

thanks again,

Kevin

[NCLR1]

It sounds like you are just getting underway with clearing up the bog issue. I know you are excited. Just some advice that I am sure others will back me on, have some patience and make sure you dial everything in together. It is not going to do much good to add the mods and not work out the problem. The bog will most likely still be around. It will take some adjusting of the pilot circuit and experience you gain after rides. Good luck.

[KEVINWHEATCROFT]

thats good advice, it is easy to just want the mods to fix the problem. I just ordered the jet kit recommended, and will open up the air box. How much should i open it? I see those 1" round filtered holes for sale, how many do you recommend?

thanks for your help,

Kevin

[JAWS]

The JD kit should have instructions for you.
NCLR1 is correct in suggesting that you take your time and sort things out. These machines are very sensitive to the settings of the pilot circuit. JD will give you good starting point information. Follow it and let us know.
Joe

[KEVINWHEATCROFT]

thanks Joe

[NCLR1]

thats good advice, it is easy to just want the mods to fix the problem. I just ordered the jet kit recommended, and will open up the air box. How much should i open it? I see those 1" round filtered holes for sale, how many do you recommend?

thanks for your help,

Kevin

If you take off your seat you can look at the top of the box and get a good idea of what we are talking about cutting. I cut about a 4 x 4 square out of the top. Basically the entire top. You want to leave the ends on there so that it holds the box together still. There is a detailed thread on here that has been linked so many times I am afraid if I do it again Neo will jump out of my computer and slap me across the face. Good luck. Research helps!

[Monkeywrench]

Before spending $ on inserts to install in your airbox, I'd cut the square hole in the top first. That one's free, and will allow you to jet 'richer', which when combined with added incoming air equals more power.

If you look at the top of the air box, it has an intake snorkel (like an air scoop). It's held on by rivets. Stuff some rags inside the airbox to catch the shavings and drill out the rivets and remove the snorkel. Then you can kind of see an outline around the outer edge of the top of the airbox. Drill a pilot hole (maybe 3/8" diameter) in the corner of this square you are preparing to cut out. Then use a utility knofe with a fresh blade and cut along the visible square lines, and when you're done you'll have opened the top of the box at about a 4" x 4" size.

Something else: you may consider removing the metal backfire screen from your filter cage, and switching to a backfire resistant filter (Twin Air, for example). This will help increase incoming air volume immensely, since even though your are openeing the top of the airbox, the backfire screen is still an inhibitor. If you're not sure just how much it can restrict, pull your filter cage out, and remove the filter. Next, try blowing thru the backfire screen into the palm of your hand. You won't feel much!

Good luck, and work patiently. It WILL be worth everything you're about to do. It's a great bike afterwards.
-matt

[KEVINWHEATCROFT]

i will definitely look into the twin air and remove the top of the box, i have a new pipe on the way, and a jet kit.

thanks a lot,

Kevin