[Darby]

I am sure this is a dead subject around here but I just did the Boyesen Quickshot, Pink Wire, and Air box mod and now I have major bogging problems. Right after I put the quickshot on I turned the fuel screw out a 1/4 turn like the instructions said to and I rode and had no problems. Next I did the pink wire mod and the airbox and thats when the bog started. I can't see why the pink wire would cause the bog so I figured its the airbox cause the mixture to be to lean but when I richened the mixture it seemed to get worse. What is the stock setting for the fuel screw so that I can start from scratch and do you think the JD jet kit would be the solution. If so is that something I could do myself because I hate taking my bike to the shop the $$$ signs start adding up you know.

Darby

[JAWS]

If you have never jetted then you took an already lean bike and made it worse. The Boyesen doesn't actually address the bog for us mere mortals, it is more about refilling the pump for those MX or real fast woods types that give it more of a workout. The pink wire mod isn't of any real value on your bike either. IT changes the curve to resemble the R curve and raises the rev limit about 500 rpm. On a 250 you don't need that raised!

If you are not a jetting master then the JD is money well spent. You may need to raise your pilot one step as well. The o-ring mod that comes with the JD kit will help a lot on the bog too.

Do yourself a favor and PM ~. He has a lot of good 250 info and specifics on the o-ring mod.

Joe

[abacojeff]

what JAWS said (mostly)...

Maybe you got your answers already from ~, but just in case you didn't here's the 'usual' answers.

You are jetted too lean. Adjusting the fuel screw for the most part only affects idle up to 1/8 throttle, that's it. Any significant changes affecting breathing (induction/exhaust) requires setting up the jetting to match!

You gots to crack open the carb.

The general consensus is:

Fuel Screw = approx 1 7/8 turns (depends on local conditions and other jetting choices, so you'll hear anything from 3/4 turn to 2 3/4 turns -- but 1 7/8 will get you started). To dial it in, do the idle drop test at 1700 rpm.

Pilot = 42 (if the bike is really opened up i.e. Hotcams and aftermarket pipe, then 45 is a possibility).

Needle = JD Red Needle, 4th clip (go to 5th for cooler climates and/or lower elevation; go to 3rd for warmer climate and/or higher elevation).

Main Jet = 158 (some go a little leaner, and some go a litter richer. This should be in the ballpark. For cammed and piped bikes, go to 165. This can vary somewhat if you ride in extreme temps/elevations).

Accelerator Pump = go with the "Redbeard" mods i.e. o-ring and diaphram that is available as part of the JD Jetting Kit. Check the AP timing (or engagement gap) while you're doing this mod.

Leak Jet = 55 (you'll hear anything from soldered closed up to 70. The Honda closed course mods call for 70, but this makes sense only if you mainly ride on tracks i.e. opening and closing the throttle rapidly over short periods of time where the 70 will keep you from flooding. So, big has its place - but only in limited situations. Many advocated small in the past i.e. soldered or as low as 30 to 40 to increase squirt duration/volume, but modern thinking is that the AP mods are the way to go instead of tiny leak jets).

Helpful Hints:
To make the jetting simple and easy, go with the JD Jetting Kit for the needle, mains, and AP Redbeard parts. Ken has the kit here on CRFsOnly. Add the appropriate leak and pilot jets and you're done. You can track down alternate Honda parts on your own, but the JD kits make things easy (and the taper on his needles are unique).

Punch a hole in the muffler baffle per Rick Ramsey.
http://www.rickramsey.net/CRF250X.htm
Removing the baffle completely just makes the bike a whole lot louder and mostly run worse. Aftermarket pipes are an option, but the stock pipe is surprisingly good unless you're doing extensive work (i.e. head work, cams, high compression). However, the stock pipe is HEAVY.

When you have the carb apart to do the jetting, replace the stock bowl screws with allen head stainless screws to make dropping the bowl in the future 1000% easier in the future.

If you haven't already done it, get a replacement fuel screw for easier adjustments. Ken's got 'em here too!

Regarding the the Quick Shot - as JAWS said - it has value only in certain circumstance where quick recharging of the AP is useful. For general bog improvement, the JD kit with the AP mod is the better option.

What JAWS got wrong was his comment on the pink wire mod... the difference after is AMAZING! Everybody should definitely do it. The only down side is that the rev limit is higher so just be sure not to keep revs maxed out all the time or you'll be doing a top end more frequently. If you don't trust your buddies to take it easy or you want a mellower response, just put a switch inline instead of pulling the wire.

"Past performance is not a guarantee of future results"
"Your mileage may vary"
"I swear to drunk that I'm not God"

Jeff

[KevinM]

What worked for me in NJ is in my sig. I have an aftermarket exhaust, thus the larger main jet (162).

The settings on '07 R are a "work in progress".. I managed to lose the 45 pilot I bought, so I used the blue needle to see how that worked in the cold temps we have at the moment. But ignore all that. You need the X info.

Good luck.

[Asmith]

Nice answers!!!!

JAWS, looks like you have some Jetting apprentices getting ready to go out on their own.

Jeff, very complete answer. I never got much from the Pink wire mod, are you running stock cam, R, or after market?

[Darby]

Hey Guys, I have one more question do the leak and Pilot jets come with the JD kit or do I need to buy them seperate. I am going to order the kit now so it is at my house when I get home from work this time and I would hate to have to wait to find the other stuff. The dealers where I live leave much to be desired. I appreciate all the info I would be fumbling around in the dark if it were not for this page.

Thanks

[JAWS]

Hey Guys, I have one more question do the leak and Pilot jets come with the JD kit or do I need to buy them seperate. I am going to order the kit now so it is at my house when I get home from work this time and I would hate to have to wait to find the other stuff. The dealers where I live leave much to be desired. I appreciate all the info I would be fumbling around in the dark if it were not for this page.

Thanks

You will not get pilot jets or leak jets in the JD initial kit. He does have a leak jet kit: http://www.crfsonly.com/catalog/product ... ts_id/1214

Pilot/leak jets can be gotten from your Honda dealer, and any other dealer that has a similar carb, such as your KTM dealer.

Joe

[Asmith]

Hey Guys, I have one more question do the leak and Pilot jets come with the JD kit or do I need to buy them seperate. I am going to order the kit now so it is at my house when I get home from work this time and I would hate to have to wait to find the other stuff. The dealers where I live leave much to be desired. I appreciate all the info I would be fumbling around in the dark if it were not for this page.

Thanks

No.

The JD kit contains only 4 main jets, two needles and the o-rings to do the AP mod.

The 42 would be obtained from the dealer or maybe service Honda if you had to order. Most dealers have them. They are about $ 7.

BTW-KTM's use the Keihin FCR carb as well. If the Honda Dealer sucks, try the KTM dealer.

[JAWS]

Damn, how did that happen?? I actually got one in before AS posted!

If you don't believe that is difficult, just take a look at his post count!!!!
Joe

[Asmith]

Damn multitasking!!!

Too many screens open at once...

I gotta focus.

[IvanCRF]

oh please

[NCLR1]

Hey Guys, I have one more question do the leak and Pilot jets come with the JD kit or do I need to buy them seperate. I am going to order the kit now so it is at my house when I get home from work this time and I would hate to have to wait to find the other stuff. The dealers where I live leave much to be desired. I appreciate all the info I would be fumbling around in the dark if it were not for this page.

Thanks

One thing to watch out for that was not mentioned: When I ordered my pilot jet from the dealer they gave me one for the R. The entire shape is different than that of the X. So, when I was wrist deep in my carb at 1 in the morning, I was not happy to see that.

Also, I did the above mentioned mods and everything is real nice. The only thing I did not mod was the leak jet. If you are going to swap yours, just know that it is not located with the other jets (correct me if I am wrong), it is in the bottom of the float bowl by itself. Good luck and make sure to post some results.

P.S. After staring at Jaws signature pic in every jetting post I have thought of a new nick-name, it's kinda cheesy but I am bored at work... "Obi Keihin Nobi"

[abacojeff]

Long time lurker, first time poster!!! (well, now it's second time poster)...

Haven't setup my signature yet but the stats are:

CRF250X (beat to heck but modifying/rebuilding)
PJ = 45 (i'm going to drop to 42)
Main = 162 (i'm going to drop to 158 or 160)
Needle = JD red 4th clip
Leak = 55
STR Fuel Screw = 1 7/8
Boysen QuickShot AP cover (least useful mod)
Ramsey Baffle mod (3/4" hole)
Pink Wire mod
Applied Racing Smog Block kit
Misc. Zip Ty widgets
Twin Air PowerFlow Air Filter
Napalm Racing Air Filter Bolt (must have)
Opened up Airbox per Honda Closed Course instructions
Stock X cam (Hotcams will be next mod along with 07 head)

When work and riding season slows down, I'll be adding hi comp JE piston (nti), '07 head with SS valves (ntb), hotcams (ntb), Cycra Pro Guards (nti), STR Bleed Buttons (nti), Trail Tech computer (nti) may want to change from Endurance to Lynx, Fastway EVO footpegs (ntb), Dirt Skins Fork Seal protection (nti), ProGrip 790 grips (nti), Pro Taper alum. throttle tube (nti), plastic and graphics (ntb)!

(nti = bought it, need to install; ntb = need to buy).

Best mod to date = more seat time, just ride more!

Best mod to date (parts) = JD Jetting, pilot and leak jets also carb bowl ss screws. Too bad the kit didn't have the o-rings for the AP when I got it! (well, that stuff and opening up the airbox. well, that stuff and opening up the airbox and the Twin Air. )

Best mod coming up = HOTCAMS!!! biggest bang fo the buck fo sure!

Least effective mod = Boysen

Least effective accessory = BillyWho Fill Pack (however, the manfunnel is good).

P.S. ~ asked about what I got out of the pink wire mod - I know that some have reported little or no change and others report big change. I think 'cause my bike is a little older and little 'used and abused' it was on the ragged edge of running bad... so, the pink wire helped to make it more responsive and opened up the top (better mid and sharper top). I think the new curve helped the mid and the higher rev limit allowed it to 'clear its throat' and make more power up top. I have the feeling that a good running bike perfectly dialled in wouldn't show much of a difference (except over rev).

Location = SoCal (Ventura County)... see you around Rower, Gorman, Cal City and Randsburg. (P.S. the neighbors are deciding whether Pres. Day weekend will be Cal City or Randsburg, maybe I'll have a chance to hook up with "Old Mans" crew???)

Only 1821 posts to catch up with JAWS and 4404 to catch up with ~!

"I never apologize. I'm sorry, but that's just the way I am."

[Darby]

Sorry But I am confused again,

abacojeff posted (Needle = JD Red Needle, 4th clip (go to 5th for cooler climates and/or lower elevation; go to 3rd for warmer climate and/or higher elevation).

I live in a relatively warm climate(south Georgia) and at a relatively low elevation (50 miles from the coast). So what should I do 5th clip because its lower or 3rd because its warmer or should I just split the difference and go with the 4th?

Probably just making a mountain out of a molehill but I would rather not crack the carb twice.

Darby

[NCLR1]

Sorry But I am confused again,

abacojeff posted (Needle = JD Red Needle, 4th clip (go to 5th for cooler climates and/or lower elevation; go to 3rd for warmer climate and/or higher elevation).

I live in a relatively warm climate(south Georgia) and at a relatively low elevation (50 miles from the coast). So what should I do 5th clip because its lower or 3rd because its warmer or should I just split the difference and go with the 4th?

Probably just making a mountain out of a molehill but I would rather not crack the carb twice.Darby

The beauty of your problem is........ it doesn't matter! Ok that wasn't very exciting, but seriously you don't need to "crack the carb" for a needle change. The needle is the easiest to get at. Do you have the special Honda needle removal tool? You don't have to have it but it makes things easier. Do a search for removing the red needle. If not, someone will post how to do it for ya.