[WARRIOR]

I have a 2004 crf250r ..

it has been hard to start lately so just pulled the cover and checked the valves .... .017 exhaust and .000 intake !!
the cam lines were even with head and line matched punch hole on other side!!

Why how was it even running and the hotter it got the better it ran ????


What is my next step ? I am doing this alone and you tube vids ... not much $$$$

[Deanzo]

Hey,

Your next step is to reshim.

I've been in the same place you are now with nothing more than youtube vids, online how to's and forums to help.

Good news, it's not that hard, really, it's not.

When I did it for the first time, I just printed off this how to http://crfsonly.com/howto/crf250x/crf-v ... stment.php

It's for a 250X but as you already know how to pull the tank etc, the rest is all but the same.

Then enter the gap you have, the shims used into this calculator http://crfsonly.com/calculators/crf250- ... m-calc.php

It it will tell you which size you need to buy, save's you alot of time trying to work it out/buying the wrong size.

[JimDirt]

Welcome to the site !
On the downside of this , your next step AFTER re-shim is to look for a new head , or to have your valves done by a reputable shop , this will be the next step in this process , the "shim" will only last a few rides , then they will zero out again , if your not racing then go with Stainless , if your racing and want to retain the lighter Titanium valves , then go with better valve seats , along with new valves and they will last much longer than the OEM seats/valves

PM Ken , the owner here , he can set you up with a good valve job or a new or custom built head

[WARRIOR]

Thanks guys ...
How would I shim a valve that is at .000 ..?
what's the general cost to rework a head ?

I ride this bike fairly hard .. I do laps .. not woods what kind ( metal ) should I get ??

I'm thinking about swapping out rings & piston if I take the head off and get that far into it ??


I wish I knew a general idea on parts cost .. I just don't know what all I will need ????????

[Deanzo]

Yea, that's going to be hit and miss, have to start somewhere, so enter .000 clearance in the calculator. Fit the new shim, remeasure and go again.
Shims are cheap, only a few bucks, but I don't know of another way to work out one that's zero.

Best to PM Ken, or fill this in http://www.crfsonly.com/catalog/contact_us.php

Looking around, think this is what you are asking for, price wise. http://www.crfsonly.com/catalog/product ... ts_id/4193

When I did mine, I went SS, and as I'm in New Zealand, shipping my head would just be silly, I ordered a whole new head all set up, and just changed them over one day, so no real down time, but that will add a few bucks.

New with Ti intakes
http://www.crfsonly.com/catalog/product ... ts_id/5700


If the piston is close to your timetable to change, then yes, I would.


Check out my thread when I did my head and piston, you'll see what others said I should change at the same time, and what I ending up doing, this was only a few months ago, done 40 hours so far on the new head/piston, zero issues. http://www.crfsonly.com/forum/viewtopic ... sc&start=0

[serialize]

I just went through the process of the valve shims replacement. I did it twice actually (the whole process) just to be sure of the measurements. I ended up buying a valve shim kit from hotcams and have 3 of every valve shim size available for the CRF .. lol
If you are in the GTA in Canada let me know I may have shims for you.
As the other posters replied, it's really not that difficult and the "how-to's" and instructions on this forum are spot on. I couldn't / would'nt have tried it was it not for this forum; BEST SITE EVER! Jim and Ken are a huge resourse and provide tons of information and good advice.

As Jim pointed out, if the shims are going out of spec frequently it's near time to get head cleaned up. I talked with a local shop about this and discovered a neat program. Since I'm also planning to get mine done, and depending on what kind of bike shops are near you some offer an exchange program. In Oshawa Ontario (in Canada), there is a place and they will do a "head swap". You bring your head that needs to be re-worked and they give you a finished one on the spot (and a core-return amount towards your head you give them). It's a great program and I'm just going to keep at the shims for this season and at the end of the season take my head for exchange.

[WARRIOR]

This is The Best CRF site ever !! ......

Thanks everyone !!

So go get some shims and just start and see where the bike takes me ...??

I have no idea what shims are in it already what kind of valves .. nothing so I guess I just have to break into it !!????

The bike was bought from a fast local pro that his Dad did major upgrades so my guess is I may have ss or Ti in it already .....ah the unknown .....

I will have to start and stop on this simple valve job to figure out what's in the motor now !!

wish me luck.... will give updates.....

[JimDirt]

If the guy was racing then i would guess they are Titanium valves, which would be what comes stock , most people that trail ride or off-road ride/race , where dust is a major issue and longer harder running , use Stainless , though they are slightly heavier , the performance drop is not that bad

What type of valves has no impact on the type or size of shims , and due to manufacturing as well as others replacing parts , there is not a "use this shim size and your done" thing , , 2 bikes the exact same bought at the same place on the same date will have different shims from the other , its just the way it is

Do yourself a favor if you have not already done so , and get yourself a Factory Honda Service Manual , they will have step by step procedures and also have pictures to show you what needs to be done and when , anyone who is going to work on their own bike should have one

(just pick your bike from the drop down list)
http://www.crfsonly.com/catalog/product ... ts_id/3226

There is always someone here to help you thru anything you get stuck on , but the Manual is your friend !!

[WARRIOR]

DONE !!...


Well kinda ...Need to torque the cam cap bolts but with it just hand tight I'm .014 & .008 so I hope when I tighten it up it should ( knock on wood !) be in spec ?? what ya think ?

I want to thank everyone for their help and encouragement to go ahead and JUST DO IT !!!
Best site ever !!

[JimDirt]

The gap will be tighter when you torque them , but remember its not much tighter than hand tight anyway , i always give a good snug and check , and if its just slightly loose , then when torqued it should be about right , then after you torque them , then check again , and go from there , 0.14/0.008 might be a bit loose , i would be happier with 0.12 or 13 , and 0.007 before torquing

Do you need the torque specs ??

[WARRIOR]

I'm really pushing to get .014 & .008 can't hardly get it out !!

[JimDirt]

OK , well Cam Tower bolts tighten to 16 N-m / 12 ft lbs , so torque them and recheck gap , if your going to be off , it would be better to be slightly on the tighter side of spec rather than the loose side

[WARRIOR]

Thanks Jim Dirt ...

[JimDirt]

I was editing when you posted , so Torque specs are posted

[JimDirt]

No problem