[488piper]

Hi all. New to dirt bike scene and finally able to ride to 250x i bought 4 yrs ago! Bike is still stock and very little hrs. No mods-100% stock. I removed the carb and cleaned and now would like to re-jet and do ccc mods. I am a total newb so any advice would be appreciated. I have read that "drilling out" stock pipes on 08 isn't possible and wondering if i can use stock pipe ? I ride at 0-2500'

[MattBennett23]

I have a 2009 CRF250X. I would recommend getting the JD Jetting kit for your jetting needs. Tells you exactly what to use for your set up.

As far as CCC Mods, I opened the top of my airbox and rejetted. No need for me to do anything else. The other mods are the R cam and R exhaust but I have not seen a need to do so. If you do those you can do the pink wire mod which supposedly changes the mapping to the R mapping but has no effect without the cam and exhaust. I have heard of people drilling out the exhaust, but I have heard it doesnt help much and makes the bike crazy loud. If you want aftermarket exhaust I have heard the FMF Q4 is very nice.

[MattBennett23]

Here is the flyer on CCC Mods.

http://rickramsey.net/CRF250Xlg/TheWrench.jpg

[MattBennett23]

I would recommend opening the airbox, rejetting, getting some barkbusters, getting a stabilizer, and getting a Rekluse auto clutch. That I think will get you pretty happy...

[crfsonly]

welcome 488piper! great bike and lots of fun awaits you. let us know if we can be of service.

ken

[488piper]

Thanks all for the replies. Just ordered j.d. jet kit and am planning on tackling the air box mod and re-jetting carb as soon as i get package in the mail. Ordering from canada so maybe have them in hand in a week. Am looking for some advice on re-jetting for 2008x and also if there is anything else that might be good to know before doing air box open up. Am thinking of opening air box to honda ccc specs and also adding some extra air flow with round drill-n- pop in air box vents. Just curious if i should also drill hole through diffuser pipe on stock 08 exhaust and how much it may help? If only minimal gains and too loud than may not do so. Anyways that pretty much sums it up. A lot of info in one post i know but i am new to this so thanx for reading!

[MattBennett23]

If you click on the bike under my name in the author box, you can see my bike in the garage portion of this website. If you look under the mods the bottom one is "Opened Air Box." Click on that and there is a pic that shows the cutout that we did on my bike. You just follow the lines, it is very easy to cut out. We did not even remove the box, just cut it right on the bike. I have never needed more air. I would try that first and then see if you need more air before doing more. You can always take more off as needed but most people dont need more than just the top opened.

The JD kit will tell you everything you need to know about jetting. It will give you settings for different elevation, mods (such as opening the airbox or exhaust) and tell you all you need to know.

I run stock exhaust with no problem. Has all the power that I need. From what I have heard, drilling the diffuser makes it very loud and doesnt help much. The stocker works for me but if you need a more flowing exhaust try the FMF Q4. I read an exhaust test once for the 250X and they said the stocker was almost as good as any of the aftermarket ones and quiet as all hell. I have never felt the need for aftermarket exhaust, the stock has plenty of power for me, and I am a bigger guy (about 220 lbs).

[488piper]

Thanks again matt. I will try exactly that with air box and re-jet. Not wanting to change exhaust unless i have to for performance. How exactly does the clutch help? and what kind of handling difference with lowering kit? I always feel like i am up about 4" too high when riding.

[488piper]

Rekluse clutch that is. And wondering what a stabilizer will help with also? =)

[MattBennett23]

Well I am short, about 5'6". The fist thing I did when I got it was have the suspension revalved and lowered. The bike fits me perfect now and keeps the same handling characteristics as stock. They make a lowering link that you can get that drops the rear end a few inches, but it effects handling. You have to mess with the forks to get a good balance. I just had the suspension lowered by a suspension shop. Fits me perfect now, and I can actually put my foot down if needed. The only loss was a little bit of ground clearance. It is more expensive than the lowering link, but if you have a good suspension shop in the area, I highly recommend it.

Another option you can do if you just need an inch or so is the Durelle Racing Seat. Its a gel seat so it is supposedly more comfy than stock and lowers the seat height 1.5 inches.

As far as the Rekluse, it is pretty freaking sweet. Very easy to install, it just replaces a few clutch plates in the clutch pack. After installation, you never have to use the clutch lever again if you dont want to (except to start the bike). It has perfect engagement and lets you start and stop in any gear without ever using the clutch lever. No more stalling, perfect slipping of the clutch when its needed. You can run a gear high without stalling, and it is pretty much a great device. Plus if you crash the bike keeps running without stalling. It's not good for your clutch, but it is possible (I've done it) to idle in 5th gear and take off smoothly in 5th, with no stalling or sputtering, without ever touching the clutch lever....

As far as stabilizer, there are two major ones, the Scotts and the GPR. What they do is put adjustable resistance on your front end, basically helping hold your front wheel straight and keep it from deflecting. It's basically a magic root, rock, and head shake eraser. It makes the bike easier to control and more stable in high speed or rough conditions. Most people on here prefer the Scotts, but I prefer the GPR. The Scotts is more adjustable with two dials while the GPR is easier to adjust with just 1 dial. The GPR comes in different colors also (mine is red and gets compliments all the time on its looks). The Scotts only affects the ability of the wheel to turn outwards from center, with a free moving return to center. The GPR affects the movement of the wheel both away from center and back to center, keeping consistent resistance at the bars all the time.

Any other questions or if I am not being clear, let me know!

[488piper]

That rekluse sounds great! so no clutching while shifting huh. is it hard on clutch in any other situation other than what u mentioned? How about install? do it yourself or shop?

[MattBennett23]

Install is super easy. If you can change your clutch plates out you can do this. Comes with pretty detailed instructions also. Yup no clutch lever for shifting. Just let off the throttle, shift, and get back on it. Most pros and experienced riders shift like this while riding riding even with a standard clutch.

Supposedly the Rekluse actuates the clutch better than a person ever could, so it is supposedly easier on the clutch than a standard clutch. It is basically like cheating. Most people who have them (myself included) would not want a bike without one after having it. The new one is only $400 also so it is not as expensive as the old model.

[488piper]

Nice! I am getting all my plans for my days off narrowed down here. Can't thank you enough for the great advice Ok so next mod i am curious about on your bike is AIS. What exactly does it do for you to remove other than make bike lighter?

[MattBennett23]

I never rode with it on, so I can not verify this first hand. First off, you have about a pound of weight savings. Secondly, it looks better without it on there. Third, supposedly if you leave it on you will get a nasty popping on deceleration. It forces air into the exhaust to lean it out for emission standards. It does not improve performance at all to remove it besides weight loss, looks, and elimination of popping on deceleration.

[Fog Ducker]

I just put the Z-start in my X, cant wait to try it out!