[CRF Outlaw]

i've got a 06 230f and installed the power up jet kit with 135 main and clip in middle position on needle, 45 pilot. installed twin air filter and removed baffle and snorkle. im at 600-800ft. its still 20-35 deg F here. since installing bike is very hard to start, usually cranks the battery dead trying and end up having to push start it. it will not start with the choke on at all and refuses to stay running with it more than half way. when i do get it started it dies if i touch the throttle instantly before its warmed then its got a crazy bog off idle and and is very jerky in the tansition from idle to 1/4 throttle.

i must add, i know nothing about 4 strokes and this is the first 4 stroke carb i've ever seen the inside of. i consider myself GREAT at jetting 2 strokes but feel stupid trying to understand this 4 stroke carb and figure out the jetting. i cant even distinguish rich vs lean from riding like i can a 2 stroke.

my guess is its rich on the pilot and possibly the main but its only a guess, if thats correct its only going to get worse as the temps outside warm up. \

should i have used the stock pilot and 132 main?

[dsrpilot]

Outlaw,

Check out the 230f jetting database at:
http://www.crfsonly.com/forum/viewtopic ... sc&start=0

It appears as if most people at your elevation have used the 132 main instead of the 135, and many use a smaller main than that at higher elevations.

I can also tell you my 230 with the powerup kit (45 pilot, 132 main) was harder to start as it got colder. It also ran great at my elevation (about 900ft), but didn't run as well in the mountains at higher elevations. And in the mountain I even ended up completely closing the fuel screw, which made it better, but still not perfect. As I returned home, I opened up the fuel screw to 2.5 turns and it was back to normal. The message being that elevation and temperature make a large difference in these bikes.

Also, did you replace the fuel screw to one that you can adjust easily? If not, have you adjusted it? It's tough because it's a D shaped head so you have to get tricky on adjusting it or getting it out to replace it.

Each bike is a little different, so go back to the 132, and keep the larger pilot. Adjust the fuel screw to 2 turns out and adjust from there.

It might take a little experimentation to get it right.

Here's another thread with a lot of info on jetting in it...

http://www.crfsonly.com/forum/viewtopic ... g+database

[scotsy]

My 230 has the power up needle (C30F) with clip set at 4th groove from the top, 45 pilot and 120 main (it did have a 132 main fitted when i bought it but i recently fitted the 120 main as suggested by www.coeshow.com from Thumpertalk. The bike is a bit more 'cold blooded' now but runs a lot crisper once warmed up.

Your fuel screw may need adjusting now, screw it in fully and then back it out 2 full turns as a starting point. This is best done when cold as the header runs close by and can cause a burn of the knuckle if attempted when hot (don't ask me how i know )

There are extended fuel screws available to alleviate this problem, try the CRF's only shop or kouba

Another good source of info is available at http://www.rickramsey.net/CRF230Fmods.htm under 'carb notes'

IHTH Ian

[CRF Outlaw]

ill go back to 132 main. gotta order the fuel screw key. judging by others on the links im thinking i may still be running rich but was thinking maybe i should put a few of those round uni air box vents in the top instead of jetting back down since i want performance and dont ride in mud or water much anyway. opinions?

[scotsy]

Coeshow has done many dyno tests of the basic crf230f and found the 120 main to give 1.5 bhp more than the 132 'power-up' jetting, look him up on TT

[dsrpilot]

Coeshow has done many dyno tests of the basic crf230f and found the 120 main to give 1.5 bhp more than the 132 'power-up' jetting, look him up on TT

I think that's the 120 main with a different needle than comes in the powerup kit.

[dsrpilot]

ill go back to 132 main. gotta order the fuel screw key. judging by others on the links im thinking i may still be running rich but was thinking maybe i should put a few of those round uni air box vents in the top instead of jetting back down since i want performance and dont ride in mud or water much anyway. opinions?

As scotsy says you may end up smaller than the 132 ultimately.

Before you order the little round vents, take the rubber piece off the top of the airbox. It opens it up a lot. Just grab it and pull easily. It will come right off...

[CRF Outlaw]

ok removed the rubber grommet, went back to 132. still hard to start and takes a while to warm up. once its warm it runs better than it ever did before. i gotta say this is the most cold blooded machine i've ever had tho. total basket case when its cold. gotta coax it to keep it running til it warms up and thats if you can get it to start before the battery dies. cant wait for summer.

[crfsonly]

what pilot jet do you have installed? what is your fuel screw set at?

ken

[CRF Outlaw]

the pilot is the one that comes with the honda power up kit from the shop here and fuel screw has never been touched. need to get the tool

[crfsonly]

ok...you do need to check the pilot for size. just to know what you are dealing with. starting is all about the pilot circuit of the carb.

is your fuel screw the d-shaped type?

[CRF Outlaw]

its a 45 im pretty sure. as for the fuel screw i believe it is. the carb has a green dot on it.

[crfsonly]

still recommend you verify the pilot jet size. what was the honda part number on the needle you installed? let's make sure you have the correct power up needle and correct jet size.

ken

[CRF Outlaw]

ripped the package of the needle so i only have part of the number but whats left of the number is 16012-kps-921

as for the pilot i'll have to take the carb back off, cant find any part number for it in the packaging.

[crfsonly]

ok..that's the correct needle for the 230f. at this point i would leave things as they are and adjust the fuel screw. do you have the d-shape fuel screw?