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I have a 06 CFR 250R that has become increasingly hard to start. I have tried the tricks with starting the kick just after piston top dead center. No luck. 40 - 50 kicks to get the bike started cold. Easier starting when warm. However still may require up to 5 kicks. Valve clearances in spec. The bike has approx 70 hours on it. Everything is stock. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.

When very cold.
Full choke.
Turn idle screw up 1/2 turn.
3 whacks from the throttle.
Kick start rapidly with throttle closed.


paul

If the outside air temp is cold.. it may just be too lean. Paul's method could work. You'll be getting more gas in the cylinder.

Before you try a new pilot jet to richen it up, you could just turn the fuel screw out to about 2 turns. Maybe 2-1/4 turns. See if that helps.

Also.. clean the carb. It could just be dirty.

If it helps.. my 250X and 250R jet specs are below. Both start almost immediately when cold... even if it's 20 degree outside.

Many thanks for the tips. I also rechecked the valve clearances. Think I found the culprit. One of the intake valves is zero'd out. Now I'm after advice on valve replacements. Anyone running stainless steel valves?

valves... that'll do it, but that seems like they went quick. You sure it only has 70 hours?

stainless is I believe the valve of choice for replacement. I haven't done mine yet, but I recall seeing threads where others have went with stainless for replacement.

Hoff wrote:Many thanks for the tips. I also rechecked the valve clearances. Think I found the culprit. One of the intake valves is zero'd out. Now I'm after advice on valve replacements. Anyone running stainless steel valves?

You can go with Kibblewhite's or FactionMX. Both are stainless.

Kibble's run about $ 285, FactionMX's run $ 167.

Holy Crap !!! I never woulda guessed his right intake would be at -.002

Send your head Hoff, to AS, he'll do you up. Oh, and send the parts needed also.

Yes, I am sure on the hours. The strange thing is both exhaust valves and one intake valve clearance were in spec. The one out of spec intake valve required a shim 0.012' thinner. Note this is more than twice the spec clearance... so it was really bad. Again, not sure why one of four valves changed so drastically. Honda dealer feels that valve may have sucked some dirt through the air filter. A little dirt on the titanium valves causes the valve to get reshaped, which allows the valve to seat up futher into the head. They advise that stainless steel valves do not have such a problem.

Hoff wrote:Yes, I am sure on the hours. The strange thing is both exhaust valves and one intake valve clearance were in spec. The one out of spec intake valve required a shim 0.012' thinner. Note this is more than twice the spec clearance... so it was really bad. Again, not sure why one of four valves changed so drastically. Honda dealer feels that valve may have sucked some dirt through the air filter. A little dirt on the titanium valves causes the valve to get reshaped, which allows the valve to seat up futher into the head. They advise that stainless steel valves do not have such a problem.

It cracks me up how all the dealers have stuck to the party line about sucking dirt.

But none have ever been able to explain why when both suck the same dirt, only the right one on the 250's tightens up.

The Stainless valves do outlive the Titanium valves due to their hardness relative to the seats.

Make sure to have the seats recut and the guides checked to ensure the head is ready for new valves.

You are correct... It was the right intake valve that tightened up. And yes it sucked the same "dirt" as the left one. I'll soon be getting the stainless. Where? and what type?

The reason why the right valve is worn out when dragging sand is simple. Sand is heavier then air and the airflow makes the heavy sand go to the right side. So if you have the rigth valve worn out you need to clean your airfilter and box better.