[BushBoarder]

Just rejetted using JD on my 06 250X. Followed the instructions given with JD kit. 158 main, 42 pilot, red needle, cut airbox 4x4. didn't mod exhaust because JD's instructions didn't say to do it.
Was wondering what the o-ring around the pump timing screw/linkage does? I put the thin o-ring on but don't understand what it does.
Also, should I have drilled or pulled the baffle?
I ride 0-1000 ft sea level, single track in MA.
Thanks.

[randman1]

Just rejetted using JD on my 06 250X. Followed the instructions given with JD kit. 158 main, 42 pilot, red needle, cut airbox 4x4. didn't mod exhaust because JD's instructions didn't say to do it.
Was wondering what the o-ring around the pump timing screw/linkage does? I put the thin o-ring on but don't understand what it does.
Also, should I have drilled or pulled the baffle?
I ride 0-1000 ft sea level, single track in MA.
Thanks.

http://www.rickramsey.net/CRF250Xmymods.htm this might help.
The o-ring mod helps improve the delay in the accelerator pump fuel squirt.

http://www.squadpage.com/pandora/Profes ... %20Mod.pdf

[randman1]

look under exhaust defuser on the Rick Ramsey link.

[BushBoarder]

randman1, thanks for the info. makes the o-ring mod clearer now. as for rick ramsey's page, he drilled out 11/16th on the baffle. do you think if I drill out my baffle, I'll need to change my clip position and add to the main jet? the bike runs good now so is it worth drilling out the baffle?
thanks in advance

[JAWS]

Bushboarder, take a look at this to see what others are doing:
http://crfsonly.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=13472&start=0
Joe

[BushBoarder]

fuel screw is at 1 3/4, maybe a hair more. when I drill the baffle, will I need to turn the fuel screw out to around 2?
sorry for all the questions, still new to this.
thanks

[JohnSBA]

FWIW, I run the same setup as you, 2006 250x, JD kit per instructions (although I put 160 main in), thin o-ring, and I've left the exhaust completely stock, at 0-1000ft elevation... bike absolutely rips. As AS has said in other threads, and I completely agree based on dyno runs I've made on my KTM Supermoto, Carb and airbox will give you the most gains in performance (HP/torque). Exhaust will give you a small gain, but if it causes you to get loud, and /or hassled by rangers, that's attention I don't need.

My bike does not bog at all, and is strong right off the bottom all the way through the rev range.

good luck.

[BushBoarder]

maybe I'll try the 160 main and see how that works out before doing anything to the exhaust.
thanks all for the info.

[JAWS]

If you decide to do the exhaust, you will find that the noise level increase isn't all that much. You would still be legal.

Be sure to check that all the carb boots are tight , etc as well.

I did assume the bog was while actually riding, right?
Joe

[BushBoarder]

Jaws: yes the bog is while riding. checked the carb boots, seem fine. I'll play with it some more and see what I can get out of it.
thanks.

[Asmith]

Jaws: yes the bog is while riding. checked the carb boots, seem fine. I'll play with it some more and see what I can get out of it.
thanks.

Open the fuel screw to 2 turns.

The 160 main will have no effect on bog.
It doesn't even come into play until 1/2 throttle.

[BushBoarder]

Jaws: yes the bog is while riding. checked the carb boots, seem fine. I'll play with it some more and see what I can get out of it.
thanks.

Open the fuel screw to 2 turns.

The 160 main will have no effect on bog.
It doesn't even come into play until 1/2 throttle.

will try 2 turns out when riding on tuesday.
thanks

[BushBoarder]

AS: ok tried 2 turns out on the fuel screw. rode for 30-40 minutes, still got bog. then tried 2 1/4 on fuel screw, still got it. what do I do now!? would changing the pilot to 45 help? or drilling baffle and going 160/165 main change anything? I know you said main doesn't come into play until 1/2 throttle. I'm grasping at straws here.
another thought, should I try the heavier/thicker o-ring for the AP mod?

[JAWS]

You might try that thicker o-ring. That's what most use.
Joe

[JohnSBA]

Thick o-ring vs thin... I've used the thick on my KTM and it really works, almost too well, twist the throttle hard and that thing just leaps. I went with the thin o-ring on my 250x since I don't really need it to jump off the line like that, although I haven't tested both on the same bike so I can't say if it really would make a big difference or not. I'm very happy with my setup, using the thin o-ring.

I'm a little slow sometimes bushboarder, can you more precisely define the bog you are getting. The more detail the better. That will help nail down the most likely culprits. If the bog is when you are going from a dead stop, whacking on the throttle and then having the bike just bog straight away before it picks up and takes off, that's one thing. If you are out riding around and the bike just starts bogging at different rev ranges that's something different. More info the better...