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Tools Needed:

Spoke Wrench - 6.0 front spokes, 6.5 rear spokes

5mm Allen wrench bit

Cordless Driver

Truing stand

Square

Step One:
Mount stock wheel in truing stand. Use square to determine stock offset. Set on gauge or record somewhere.


Step Two:
Wrap small piece of duct tape around spokes where they cross each other. Keeps things nice and organized.


Step Three:
Remove spoke nipples from rim side using a cordless driver and a 5mm Allen bit.


Step Four:
Clean the spoke threads and the nipples thoroughly and apply lubricant.

Step Five:
Place new rim in position and line up spokes with beveled holes. Holes are offset and are oriented to the side of the hub with which they connect.


Step Six:
Start lacing wheel by putting on nipples by hand. Make sure not to crossthread.


Step Seven:
Once all nipples are started, use the cordless drive to snug. Do not overtighten. Run the nipples down until the last thread shows.


Step Eight:
Mount wheel in Truing Stand. Remove duct tape from spokes. Check with square to ensure offset is correct.

Step Nine:
Now make as many rounds as it takes, tightening the nipples one half turn or so until they become very snug.
No threads should be showing.


Step Ten:
Set up the runout gauge to the rim. This indicator shows both Lateral (side to side) and Radial (out of round) runout.

Step Eleven:
Slowly spin wheel and check for trueness and mark inconsistencies with a piece of chalk or a wax pencil.

When adjusting spoke nipples, tighten/loosen nipples, no more than one third of a revolution at a time.

Radial Runout - To change a rims radial run out (roundness) tighten several (4-6) spokes in a row on your mark and loosen several (4-6) spokes on both sides of the spokes you tightened. This will pull the rim back to round

Lateral Runout - To change a rims lateral run-out (straightness) tighten every other spoke (4-6 in a row) centering on your mark, that pull from the opposite side of the hub. Loosen every other spoke between these spokes, to allow the rim to move sideways, back towards center.

Step Twelve:
Re-adjust runout gauge so the tolerances get smaller with each series of adjustments.
Slowly spin rim to re-check for trueness and repeat truing as necessary.

Step Thirteen:
Install new rim band, bead lock and tires. Mount wheels on bike and RIDE!!!

Thanks for the write-up #2. Any chance you could post a couple of pictures of the truing stand also? I am wondering if I could convert one of the ATK bike shoes I have collecting dust in my shed to one?

Roady wrote:Thanks for the write-up #2. Any chance you could post a couple of pictures of the truing stand also? I am wondering if I could convert one of the ATK bike shoes I have collecting dust in my shed to one?

Here's the link to the tool:

http://www.crfsonly.com/catalog/product ... ts_id/1914

Sorry to bump this old but very valuable article to the top, but I have two questions for ~:

1. You mentioned at the beginning to "Mount stock wheel in truing stand. Use square to determine stock offset. Set on gauge or record somewhere."

I have removed my rim completely and have no record of this. What should I use?

2. Do you use a spoke torque wrench? If not, how do you determine the torque?

Thanks

The OEM offset for the R front wheel is 27.25mm from the surface the disc is mounted to the outside edge of the rim.

I use an Excel torque wrench set at 35in/lbs...3.954469016 N*m. ( or close... )

Use your ear.

Get them all tight to about the same sound. Tap them with the spoke wrench like a tuning fork.

The torque wrench makes easy work of it, but it can be done by ear.

The offset is the "hub to rim distance" listed in the service manual specifications correct?

124 wrote:The offset is the "hub to rim distance" listed in the service manual specifications correct?

Correct...measured from the left face of the hub. Rear hub is where the sprocket mounts, front hub is where the disc mounts.