Stock suspenaion set up.
  • Nicracer58
    Posts: 2
    Joined: Mon Oct 22, 2018 6:05 pm

    Stock suspenaion set up.

    by Nicracer58 » Mon Oct 22, 2018 6:10 pm

    I own a 07 Crf250r. I set the settings to what the stock manual has them at. Over time as ive gotten faster ive noticed its more harsh to ride. Im 135 without gear. I dont want to spend money on a older bike to pay for suspension set up or revalving. Are there any of you 07 suspension gurus who knows what settings are the best for the stocker?
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    JimDirt
    Posts: 4406
    Joined: Sat Nov 25, 2006 6:31 pm

    Re: Stock suspenaion set up.

    by JimDirt » Mon Oct 22, 2018 7:53 pm

    Welcome to the site !! \:D/

    You are a little light for the stock springs , so that may or may not contribute to your issues , its really depending on other factors


    Where we need to start is where your feeling the harshness in the stroke (first/initial part of the stroke ? , middle ? , bottom ? ), and what you are doing when you feel it (track riding ? , over whoops ? , square edge holes ? ,fast sections ?, jump landing ?? , , everywhere ? , etc.) and what it feels like when you did adjust the clickers and how did you adjusted them ?? (did you adjust compression and rebound at the same time ?? , hopefully you did each separate then tested/rode) , Does it feel ok most of the track ?? (again assuming you are track riding) , and is this on the same track every time , and what is the dirt type , sand , hard pack , loamy , etc. ?? are there G outs ? , are there square edge holes ??, or is it a different track each time and it feels the same with each riding condition ?? .... if you are off road riding , then other factors come into play ...

    Can you see (most of us use a O-Ring on one fork tube) how much of the travel you are actually using ?? , and most importantly , have you adjusted the sag correctly , and confirmed that the current springs are giving you the correct sag with your weight ?? ...if so what are the sag readings ??

    Have your forks (and/or shock) been serviced ?? , meaning has the oil been changed ??, if so , when ?? , and how often ?? (did you do it or a shop ?) , do you know how many cc's of oil is in the fork outer chamber ??

    How fast of rider are you ?? , realistically , not what you think you are , but when you ride with others that are A,B,C,/Intermediate,beginner, etc. as this will affect settings and overall performance feel , what is your age ?? , as when you get to a certain point , you do need to do some internal work , weather its springs or valving , unfortunately , the bikes are made for general ability riders , so they really don't work as well when you get exceptionally faster (if this is the case) , you can get away with stock suspension as long as its adjusted correctly and serviced regularly , not saying the book says start at 12 clicks out , but meaning your adjusting the correct clicker adjustment for what the bike is doing wrong

    Basically you should be able to get a somewhat pleasurable ride with the clickers , provided you fall within some guidelines , and are not doing things like flat landing jumps with the gas off , and not over jumping , or to the other end of the dial , not trying to ride above your comfort zone under sketchy conditions

    It is also important at this point to determine your mechanical skill level , what are you comfortable doing on the bike ?? , and/or what have you done or are willing to do to the bike mechanically yourself ?? 8-[
    2020 CRF450R
    2006 CRF450X
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    Weiser , Idaho
  • Nicracer58
    Posts: 2
    Joined: Mon Oct 22, 2018 6:05 pm

    Re: Stock suspenaion set up.

    by Nicracer58 » Wed Oct 24, 2018 10:31 am

    Hey man thanks for the reply, Racing and Track riding. Im a West Coast 250C rider. Going to be doing my first National in 250C Limited. Most of the tracks out here are hard packed on the bottom and loose on top in the summer time and in the winter it can hold its moisture decently. I notice I get alot of headshake in the rough sections. Braking and acceleration bumpa going into cornet ls and coming is the most violent. Im assuming it has to do with the stiffer springs. I set all the clickers back to the manual and it was way better then before. But now that my skill level has raised its defanitly harsh. Jumps are fine its mostly braking and acceleration bumps that are violent.
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    JimDirt
    Posts: 4406
    Joined: Sat Nov 25, 2006 6:31 pm

    Re: Stock suspenaion set up.

    by JimDirt » Thu Oct 25, 2018 10:44 am

    Hey man thanks for the reply, Racing and Track riding. Im a West Coast 250C rider. Going to be doing my first National in 250C Limited. Most of the tracks out here are hard packed on the bottom and loose on top in the summer time and in the winter it can hold its moisture decently. I notice I get alot of headshake in the rough sections. Braking and acceleration bumpa going into cornet ls and coming is the most violent. Im assuming it has to do with the stiffer springs. I set all the clickers back to the manual and it was way better then before. But now that my skill level has raised its defanitly harsh. Jumps are fine its mostly braking and acceleration bumps that are violent.
    Since you don't want (or don't want to spend the money) to do a re-valve , and only want to work with the clickers , your choices are limited , but what i would suggest as far as "clickers" go , is to go out at least 2 more clicks on the Rebound (counter clockwise) on the fork and shock , and add MORE sag to the shock , to get some of the weight of the forks , and go IN on the High Speed (the 14mm nut adjuster on the shock) 1/4 turn at a time till you notice a difference in harshness in the shock , this will help with the harsh initial hits I am thinking your rebound might be too slow and your hitting all those stutter bumps and the forks are not returning before hitting the next one causing the forks to hammer you and that is what your feeling , right after you adjust , you should notice a difference , if its worse , then go the opposite way (in on the rebound) , as your description is still a bit vague as you are getting different symptoms for different things going on and maybe confusing what one thing is doing and trying to relate it to another issue , when they are each separate issues and need to be addressed separately , so I am trying to decipher what exactly is going on the best I can without actually seeing you ride to see what the bike is doing , as i would still like to know how much travel you are using , as that will help explain things , which is why i mentioned the o-ring on the fork leg (you can just look at the dust on the tube and see where the fork travel ended from the lug to judge travel your using)

    You should feel a little less harshness and by lowering the rear (more sag) will help remove some or all of the head shake your getting (you did not mention if your forks are in the standard or raised position in the clamps , so I am suggesting for standard position , if you still get shake , then lower the fork in the clamps till the outer tube is flush with the top of the top clamp) , leave the compression clickers as is for now till you get the Rebound and high speed set to give more comfort , (do not go out too far on the rebound (no more than 4 clicks from the standard position) as you will then start having corner issues such as knifing or pushing) ..... ALSO , very important , make sure your forks are even in the clamps ...

    With the bike on the stand , remove the front wheel ,and slide the axle in/out all the way , when it gets to the disk side do you have to raise or lower the tube to get the axle to slide in with no effort ?? , if so , then loosen the right (non brake side) fork in the clamps and move the tube either up or down depending on what you had to do to get the axle in effortlessly and just snug it with 1 screw , then slide the axle in and out , then with the axle out , push up on each fork then release , then reinsert the axle , if its slides right in , your good , if not re-adjust till it is , then when finished re-torque the clamp bolts and re-install the front wheel

    When installing the wheel , install the axle till its flush with the lug , install the nut and snug by hand , then tighten the 2 pinch bolts on the disk side , and torque the axle nut , then spin the wheel and grab the front brake making the tire stop hard , do this a few times , then tighten the right pinch bolts , then torque them to spec , this will set your wheel so it is not sucking the forks together creating any pinch issues , doing those 2 things , should ensure your suspension is working free , which will make adjustments much more accurate , as well as make the forks work free and actually improve any harshness that may have been caused by fork and wheel bind , you should do this to the wheel as I described every time you r&r the wheel , after a while you wont think about it and it will become second nature when doing service

    This should give you some relief , but i fear you are going to need a revalve as your speed increases , and/or a Pressure spring change (the small spring inside the cartridge in the forks , not the main fork springs) , though 1 rate lighter main springs would be better for your weight , as long as your not doing SX , then you would want to keep the stiffer springs

    Hopefully I did not confuse you here , and if your unsure of something keep asking and I will try to explain as best i can , as sometimes i get real anal with my descriptions and it confuses people , so if your unsure of something i said , just ask for more clarity or a breakdown of something specific , as I don't know your mechanical background , so not sure how much you are comfortable with doing or following why I am suggesting a certain change , as we are trying to do this without altering internal components , so there is only so much we can do or have to work with , but it has to be done 1 change at a time , then tested , so you know what is doing what for better or worse

    Report back with findings ....
    2020 CRF450R
    2006 CRF450X
    Image
    Weiser , Idaho

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