by JimDirt » Wed Jul 08, 2015 1:56 pm
When your inserting the Cap Assembly, you push it in real slow , when it goes in , it will push it all out except what needs to be in there , if you go too fast it will blow out extra and you will have air in the closed system just like if you went real fast with your hand in the water , it blows the fluid out of the way, if you have way too much in the cartridge , the cap assembly will not go in at all , it will Hydro-Lock as you get to the last bit before the threads touch , the Free Piston Seal and the O-Rings are what seal the system , so if you do it correctly , no fluid after the O-Ring seats will get out as it is what is last to close off the system
As far as mine after a full stroke , the only time mine have not fully extended is when the Free Piston Seal is bad , otherwise , every time , they fully extend , its been this way since i started doing Twin Chamber suspension , over 10 years ago
As far as the clickers go , they should be fully OUT/Soft , when installing , you dont set them till the cap is installed and tightened down ready to go back on the bike , then i adjust the compression , then flip the forks over and adjust the rebound adjusters , as they BOTH should be fully soft when installing , and i always have the air bleed screw installed (the stock screw)before i put the fork cap in the cartridge , after i have everything mounted back in the clamps , then i unscrew the bleeder screw and install my push button bleeders , , then after the wheel is back on , and the bike is ready to ride , i pump the forks as hard as i can by pushing down on the bike several times , then get the bike back up on the stand and push the bleeders , then i am done and ready to ride , you don't need a pristine workshop environment to do this either , i have done this on the back of my open trailer , at the track , when changing around stacks , and the rod always fully extends , that is how i have done it for as long as i can remember (doing it at the track i only do occasionally if i don't like how the valving works right after i change the valving around and i can't adjust the issue out of it)
But since the last time i redid the valving (just this spring) , i really like the way the bike works both off road and at the track , i have yet to adjust a clicker from when i installed everything , its that good (this is on both bikes) , i wont be taking the bikes apart till this winter after the snow hits , so most likely December , as i usually can still get some riding in , in November , and October i am mostly hunting , so i dont ride much if at all in October
About the only adjustment i may have to do this year , is IF i end up going to Washougal this year , and doing the PRO race (Pacific Racing Organization) in September for the Top Gun MX Team Shootout Race with my friend in Washington (state) as its a faster longer track and i will have to stiffen it up for the bigger jumps and faster speeds , as some of the speeds get around 70mph when your hitting stuff , so too soft and you will G out and be on the ground
2020 CRF450R
2006 CRF450X
Weiser , Idaho