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Hi Guys,

I have a 2012 CRF250X

And need a little help what size rear spring I need to buy.


As far as I know, it has the stock rear spring, but am unsure how I find out what it is.

After looking at some forum posts, you tube and even the manual!
I set my race sag.

As it was, with me sitting on the bike, 125mm, sag of the bike loaded with NO rider 50mm
In the manual it says the max I can tighten the spring (it’s total length) to is 243mm, it also says the sag of the bike loaded with NO rider should be 50mm

At 243mm spring length makes my race sag 102mm, with the sag of the bike loaded with NO rider 30mm

This has made the back of the bike act like a pogo stick.

For the most part, there is no one I can just go to, and get them to sort it out, I need your help in working out what spring I need, then I’ll read up on how to install it.
I know very little about any of this stuff, but more than happy to learn and do.

I’m 85kgs and around 90~92kgs with gear on (187 pounds and around 198~203 pounds with gear)


Thanks


Dean

Stock springs for that bike is 0.42 Front , 4.8 Rear , for your weight you need to change BOTH the front and the rear spring , or the bike will still give you handling issues , you need a 0.45 front and a 5.6 for the rear

What you basically need is stock 450R/450X springs front and rear , which is what is suited for your weight , the 250X is made for 145-165 lbs riders , by getting both changed you will be able to set your sag properly , and not feel like the bike is kicking you around

If you dont change both front and rear the bike will not be balanced , your front will sag too much and it will make the bike knife in corners and the rear will kick out all the time , it will be like if you sat on the handlebars instead of the seat and tried to ride , that is why they need to be changed together , or your wasting your time

Thanks for the fast reply, thats a big help


Just been phoning around, and as it would seem with everything I want/need for my bike, nothing is ever in stock here.

In stock, I can get a .46 and 5.7 rear

I should have said, if it matters, I'm now what you'd call an intermediate rider. And I like to ride (for the most part) single forest tracks and some faster tracks with some small jumps.
That last part is whats making get this sorted.


I'll for sure do both then.

Two more things then please,

1: Would 0.46 front and 5.7 rear be ok, or will I need to look at back ordering or from overseas to get a .45 and 5.6 .

2: When I called about parts, I was asked if I was revalving as I was upping the spring alot, is that something I need to get done ?

Thanks

Dean

Re-valving helps , but springs are the first priority , if you don't do the springs then getting the valving done will be pointless , springs first , then worry about valving

With trail riding if you wear a backpack and its like mine and filled full of crap that you "might" need , and all your drinks and snacks and lunch , then it will add lots of weight to the rear of the bike , so the 5.7 will be ok if you can't readily locate a 5.6 , you will be a little on the stiff side ,but all your off-road gear will make up for it , and you can get some relief from the clickers (go out on the compression clickers on the fork and shock a few clicks and that will "soften" it up a bit , if the stiffness bothers you , the main goal is to hold the bike UP in the stroke so the suspension/valving can do its job , believe it or not , going to stiffer springs then you have will actually make the bike ride softer and smoother because the suspension will be doing what it needs to WHEN it needs to

If you can't find anything local you can order from here , Ken can get you any parts you need and decent prices and great customer service and fast shipping , or you can try EBay if its easier for you , lots of "pull offs" that are basically new springs for half the price sometimes

Yep, 100% sold on new front and rear springs.


Cool, I'll hold off on valving for now, and see how I go.


Good point about tools and back packs.

I have a front fender pack that has a small tool kit, some first aid and a tow rope.
On my back I almost always have a hydration pack with a litre or two.


I've ordered the .46 fronts and 5.7 rears with all that in mind.

Yes, Ken is really helpful, over the last month or so I've already placed 3 orders here.
On some things, prices can be crazy here, a spark plug is $17US on CRF Only, almost $50US here.
The FMF 4.1 I ordered off Ken, $400US, the stores here want $640US and as it's not a stock item, it would have to be part of a bulk order of theirs, so I'd have to wait till mid to late Sept.
On the flip side, I've been all over the world, and New Zealand is a great place to live, and I'm spoiled for choice for where I can ride.


Many thanks for your input

No problem

Thanks for your kind words and business. New Zealand is on my bucket list!

As it turned out, the stiffer ones needed to be ordered in as well.
So I had it changed to the original suggestion.

All done, front and rear, fork seals replaced as well.

Working all weekend, so no time to try them out for another week

I'll post back with how I get on

crfsonly wrote:Thanks for your kind words and business. New Zealand is on my bucket list!

NP Ken,

It's nice to deal with someone that reply's fast and is keen to help.
If you do, try and make it in the Summer, Feb and March are the best months imo.

Lools like I may be able to go for a wee putt putt this weekend (all going well with my ankle)


So I need to set my sag,


Not sure if it's the way I ask, but getting what I want to know out of the supplier is a bit like pulling teeth.
I ask "X" and the reply is a run down on "Y"
Good info for sure, just not what I need to know right now.
Things I wanted to know were the likes of, as their shock spring is 10mm shorter than the one I took out, whats the workable perload range if working off the lenght of the spring etc etc.


Anyhow, a few e-mails later, I'm down to one question


Where is the best place to measure the sag.

Some online "how too" measure straight up and down from the wheel nut, some say it "must" be on an angle, that angle seems to range from where the sides meet the rear fender, to inside the fender almost in line with the rear seat bolt.

I've gone this far, may as well make sure everything is set right, so what is the view here ?

Are you using a Sag Scale or a Measuring Tape ??

If using a Tape then have someone hold and read it from the top of the axle (where it sticks out of the axle block (on either side of the bike) to a given point on the rear fender , i usually go to a point right at the edge of the side panel/number plate so the scale/tape is resting on the edge of the number plate , keep using that point so you have a consistent reference point every time you make a measurement

If using a Sag Scale , then stick it in the opening of the axle and measure to the same point , and if using the scale , while the bike is on the bike stand with the suspension fully relaxed adjust the scale , so that the scale reads 0 (zero) when the bike is on the stand , this way when you sit on it , it will give you the true rider sag and when your off it , it will give the correct free sag (don't forget to push on the seat a few times with the bike on the ground to allow the suspension to relax)

If using a tape you have to measure the distance when extended , then subtract the difference with you on it , to get your reading , then with you off it and the bike at rest on the ground to get your free sag

Also , before doing any adjusting , make sure your linkage bearings are greased and everything is free , otherwise you will get binding and your settings will be different each time you check it

Hope that answered your question !!

Haha, yea, that does

i usually go to a point right at the edge of the side panel/number plate so the scale/tape is resting on the edge of the number plate

Thats what I was keen to hear what you do.


Yes, I use a measuring tape, and I get the wife to take the readings.


Funny you should bring up linkage bearings, was looking at "how too" youtube vids last night on that.


Though I could really do with a bit more room in my garage!

[img][img]http://s29.postimg.org/wearqe0t3/IMAG2947.jpg[/img]
http://postimage.org/app.php[/img]

LOL , Looks like my little shop (minus the washing machine) , and when i am not working on them , there is my 4X4 ATV in this shop with the bikes

You can see my 450R in the background with the suspension off so i could re-valve it


Not much room

Nice!


Well at least I'm not alone lol

A little up date on how I'm getting on,



First off, Never buy K-Tech springs in New Zealand!
What a joke, the supplier that is, I was in the store when they were talking to the supplier, saw a copy of the order, so I know what they did was right.
The front springs turned up first, they sent the ones for an R......
Then the Rear turned up a week later, though they sent a 45....... yes a 45

Also what they quoted over the phone was for an R (as it turns out, yes it was made clear it was for an X)
When the 45 was sent back, then was told the size I wanted they didn't make for an X
I could pick from a 45, 48, 52.5 or 55
Went with the 55

Anyhow,
I have now had two very good rides on the new springs, one a really nice forestry single track, the other the MX track I like that has small jumps (the jumps being why I started all this spring stuff)

Now,
I can't set the sag, I'm off about the same (but the other way) as the stock lite spring.
K-Tech UK (their HQ) who I e-mailed for help about the spring settings. Said, the 55 would be to stiff and I needed the 52.5, I asked how much/to little pre load I could use/not use in mm with their srping.
They said it was more about being at 30mm sag and 95-105mm race sag, but that it would be around 10-13mm of pre load.

@ 6mm pre load I'm around 45 sag and 85mm race sag.


That said,
Its better than riding with the 48,
But it's to stiff for the forestry single tracks, and a little bit on the track....a little.
But on the jumps, I loves it LOL soo much better than the 48, bad ankle and all, best jumping to date!

I've ordered the 52.5 as well now, which should be here later this week, well....may be, who knows what they will send lol

Ordering the other spring doesn't worry me, I'm learning so much, even if one turns into a paper weight.
And if I find the 52.5 to soft for the track, I'll just change them out for what I'm doing on that weekend.

I'll update again after I've installed the 52.5 and given it a good go.

What you need to worry about is Free Sag , and Race Sag , also the length of the spring (installed) , should be 10.2 inches (254.4mm) and a minimum of 9.6 inches (243mm) , so you need to first adjust the length of the spring on the shock so it gives that measurement while on the stand , you should be able to get that with the springs i mentioned (5.6) , so that 5.5 should give you those measurements , then check and adjust the sag from there , which should be minimal , maybe a couple turns at most ....

Unless your linkage is binding or dry , to be sure , remove the shock from the lower linkage so the linkage is free , and see if the linkage actually moves freely back and forth , if not you need to replace all the linkage bearings, it will affect the sag readings dramatically if its not free (this is with the linkage all torqued to proper specs , but with the shock disconnected , do this FIRST , then report back with your findings , but with the springs mentioned you should be spot on , on sag for your weight