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Hi fellas,

I was thinking of doing some suspension tuning to my 2008 250R. These are the recommended springs off the racetech site.

FRONT FORK SPRINGS
Recommended Fork Spring Rate: 0.522 kg/mm
Stock Fork Spring Rate: 0.46 kg/mm(stock)
FRSP 434952

Rear Shock Spring
Stock Shock Spring Rate: 5.2 kg/mm (stock)
RT SHK SPR 66.9x64x267 6.0kg
SRSP 672760


The rear spring should be easy to change; it's almost like a drop in and tighten situation. But I'm worried about the front. We don't have any specialists and I don't know anything about suspension cartridges, etc.. Is the front also simple like drop in new spring; fill correct amount of oil and tighten? Or is there more involved. The User manual has detailed info on changing the fork springs. Is that enough?

Secondly; with so much difference in spring weight, will my damping be way off or can I get by with stock damping components?

Thanks in advance.

the front is not difficult either. we have a good how-to in our how-to section that will walk you through the process.

you will likely need, want, to adjust your clickers once you have the correct springs installed.

I am assuming you weigh about 235 or so(give or take) ? , if so , the procedure in the manual is pretty much what you want to do , you are most likely past due for a Fork Oil change (the shock is a bit more complex because it requires a Nitrogen charge to complete a oil change), but you wont have to do that to change the shock spring (you can do it yourself , its fully explained in the manual but it does require someone with a Nitrogen tank to finish the job) , i bought one because i do my own suspension valving , its about $250 for everything you need to charge a shock , so unless you plan on tearing it down often , make sure you have someone with knowledge to re-charge it

The forks you can also (if desired) get away without changing the oil and seals and bushings , i will try to explain it simply as possible

#1) Remove each fork from the bike

#2) Turn fork upside down and take a flat screwdriver and turn the adjuster IN until it stops (do not force it) counting each click (each click is 1/4 turn), write this down , then turn it all the way out till it stops (not forcing it) and then using a 21mm socket/ratchet **it helps if you have a Bench Vice to hold the fork lug...using a rag to protect it** ,loosen the nut (do not remove at this time) **I use a Electric Impact to remove the Rebound Adjuster**

#3) Set fork on ground **using a rag or something to protect it from the floor** still upside down , then unscrew completely the Rebound Adjuster that you loosened before , *NOTE* it will not come out till you undo the locknut

#4) With the adjuster completely loose grab a 13mm wrench or Specialty Holding tool if purchased , then push down on the fork so the large rod starts to protrude (this will take some force)then put the open end of the wrench "under" the locknut , then slowly release pressure until the wrench holds the shaft out so the locknut and Rebound Adjuster is exposed

#5) Take a 17mm (i believe) wrench along with a 21mm wrench and set them both together so the 21 is directly above the 17 but slightly past so it looks like a pliers handle (so you can squeeze)then loosen the locknut (just enough to break the seal between the 2 parts)

#6) You should now be able to loosen by hand the Rebound Adjuster (try not to move the locknut from its position), completely remove the Rebound Adjuster , you will notice a D shaped rod in the center of the shaft and a male counterpart on the Rebound Adjuster , using the Rebound Adjuster remove the rod by sticking it down into the shaft and slightly cocking to one side the Rebound Adjuster so it grabs the rod and then you can pull it out , set the rod only on the bench but keep the Rebound Adjuster within easy reach or in your hand

#7) Now push down on the fork again , to remove the wrench from under the locknut and slowly release the pressure , once all tension is off , slightly pull "UP" on the fork till the rod goes down inside a inch or slightly more (you may have to hold the fork in between your feet to hold it to the ground while pulling the lower leg up), now screw the Rebound Adjuster back in making sure that the rod is down enough not to thread back to the Rebound Adjuster (what you just did was release the inner chamber assembly so you can remove the spring , all this only takes a few minutes)

# 8 ) once the Rebound Adjuster is back in and snugged down with a 21mm ratchet/socket , turn the fork over , now hopefully you have a Fork Cap Wrench , but if you dont use a LARGE (12"+) Crescent Wrench and loosen the outside Fork Cap Assembly nut , i really recommend using the proper wrench for this step , the nut part that the wrench fits on is very thin so make sure you are on it firmly and squarely (its best to use the correct wrench and is really the only "specialty tool" you need for this job , they are fairly inexpensive and available here at CRF's Only) http://www.crfsonly.com/catalog/product ... ts_id/2428 , as is the Fork rod holder tool , http://www.crfsonly.com/catalog/product ... ts_id/2753

#9) Now unscrew the Fork Cap Assembly , and remove the assembly straight out , you will notice 2 holes a few inches down , one opposing the other , tilt the assembly 90 degree's so one hole is directly above the fork and let the fluid pour back into the fork , then set the assembly aside

#10) Now compress the outer tube till its about all the way down , you should be able to reach in and grab the fork spring , then replace it with the new one and extend the outer tube to where it was before and replace the assembly , and snug it down (hopefully with the correct wrench) just snug tight making sure its fully seated

#11) Now turn the fork back upside down and remove the Rebound Adjuster again , compress the fork till the shaft sticks out like before and use the 13mm wrench (or the specialty tool if you bought one) and slowly release pressure till the rod is locked in position

#12) Insert the Rebound Rod back in turning it till you feel it lock into its position(it will spin till it hits its mark then it will slightly drop and not turn any more)

#13) Now screw on the Rebound Adjuster till it bottoms out , it should be right at the locknut now , then using your 17mm and 21mm wrench , put them on just off above each other like before so you can squeeze them to tighten the locknut to the Rebound Adjuster (but the opposite way from each other than removal), once it is fairly tight , push down on the fork till you can remove the wrench/tool

#14)Slowly release pressure till the fork is extended , then tighten the Rebound Adjuster back in , snug it down firmly , then using a accurate Torque Wrench tighten it down to 69 N-m or 51 ft-lbs , re-adjust your adjuster to the number you wrote down during dis-assembly , by turning it all the way in , then out to the correct clicks

#15) Re-install the forks tightening the lower clamp bolts to 20 N-m or 15 ft-lbs , go back and forth between each bolt snugging till it stays at the recommended torque

#16) Tighten the Upper Clamp bolts to 22 N-m or 16 ft-lbs , before torquing the other fork , slide the axle in and make sure it is free , and slides in and out easily with no bind , if it does not , then slightly loosen the second fork (with the axle still inserted) and barely move it up, then check the axle , if its not free then go down slightly , till the axle moves in and out easily , then you can torque the second fork , then replace your wheel and finish assembly


This sounds complex , but once you do it you will see how easy it is ! , the way i explained this is so you wont loose any fork oil and are ONLY changing springs without rebuilding the forks

Hope this helped some

crfsonly wrote:the front is not difficult either. we have a good how-to in our how-to section that will walk you through the process.

you will likely need, want, to adjust your clickers once you have the correct springs installed.

Great, so if I decide to go ahead, can you get me the springs I want? I can only see 2 different springs available on your website.

Will I need anything else like spacers, shims, etc? The last time on my R1 I ordered springs from RT and then had to wait for a month to fit them as they didn't tell me I'll be needing spacers.

Do I also change the other consumable parts of the fork and shock like seals and dust covers? Can you give me a list of what all to replace while doing the springs?

And if I'm ordering I might as well order some other consumables like spark plugs, any carb consumables, etc? I'm in India and having all these spares available is handy.

JimDirt wrote:I am assuming you weigh about 235 or so(give or take) ? , if so , the procedure in the manual is pretty much what you want to do , you are most likely past due for a Fork Oil change (the shock is a bit more complex because it requires a Nitrogen charge to complete a oil change), but you wont have to do that to change the shock spring (you can do it yourself , its fully explained in the manual but it does require someone with a Nitrogen tank to finish the job) , i bought one because i do my own suspension valving , its about $250 for everything you need to charge a shock , so unless you plan on tearing it down often , make sure you have someone with knowledge to re-charge it

The forks you can also (if desired) get away without changing the oil and seals and bushings , i will try to explain it simply as possible

#1) Remove each fork from the bike

#2) Turn fork upside down and take a flat screwdriver and turn the adjuster IN until it stops (do not force it) counting each click (each click is 1/4 turn), write this down , then turn it all the way out till it stops (not forcing it) and then using a 21mm socket/ratchet **it helps if you have a Bench Vice to hold the fork lug...using a rag to protect it** ,loosen the nut (do not remove at this time) **I use a Electric Impact to remove the Rebound Adjuster**

#3) Set fork on ground **using a rag or something to protect it from the floor** still upside down , then unscrew completely the Rebound Adjuster that you loosened before , *NOTE* it will not come out till you undo the locknut

#4) With the adjuster completely loose grab a 13mm wrench or Specialty Holding tool if purchased , then push down on the fork so the large rod starts to protrude (this will take some force)then put the open end of the wrench "under" the locknut , then slowly release pressure until the wrench holds the shaft out so the locknut and Rebound Adjuster is exposed

#5) Take a 17mm (i believe) wrench along with a 21mm wrench and set them both together so the 21 is directly above the 17 but slightly past so it looks like a pliers handle (so you can squeeze)then loosen the locknut (just enough to break the seal between the 2 parts)

#6) You should now be able to loosen by hand the Rebound Adjuster (try not to move the locknut from its position), completely remove the Rebound Adjuster , you will notice a D shaped rod in the center of the shaft and a male counterpart on the Rebound Adjuster , using the Rebound Adjuster remove the rod by sticking it down into the shaft and slightly cocking to one side the Rebound Adjuster so it grabs the rod and then you can pull it out , set the rod only on the bench but keep the Rebound Adjuster within easy reach or in your hand

#7) Now push down on the fork again , to remove the wrench from under the locknut and slowly release the pressure , once all tension is off , slightly pull "UP" on the fork till the rod goes down inside a inch or slightly more (you may have to hold the fork in between your feet to hold it to the ground while pulling the lower leg up), now screw the Rebound Adjuster back in making sure that the rod is down enough not to thread back to the Rebound Adjuster (what you just did was release the inner chamber assembly so you can remove the spring , all this only takes a few minutes)

# 8 ) once the Rebound Adjuster is back in and snugged down with a 21mm ratchet/socket , turn the fork over , now hopefully you have a Fork Cap Wrench , but if you dont use a LARGE (12"+) Crescent Wrench and loosen the outside Fork Cap Assembly nut , i really recommend using the proper wrench for this step , the nut part that the wrench fits on is very thin so make sure you are on it firmly and squarely (its best to use the correct wrench and is really the only "specialty tool" you need for this job , they are fairly inexpensive and available here at CRF's Only) http://www.crfsonly.com/catalog/product ... ts_id/2428 , as is the Fork rod holder tool , http://www.crfsonly.com/catalog/product ... ts_id/2753

#9) Now unscrew the Fork Cap Assembly , and remove the assembly straight out , you will notice 2 holes a few inches down , one opposing the other , tilt the assembly 90 degree's so one hole is directly above the fork and let the fluid pour back into the fork , then set the assembly aside

#10) Now compress the outer tube till its about all the way down , you should be able to reach in and grab the fork spring , then replace it with the new one and extend the outer tube to where it was before and replace the assembly , and snug it down (hopefully with the correct wrench) just snug tight making sure its fully seated

#11) Now turn the fork back upside down and remove the Rebound Adjuster again , compress the fork till the shaft sticks out like before and use the 13mm wrench (or the specialty tool if you bought one) and slowly release pressure till the rod is locked in position

#12) Insert the Rebound Rod back in turning it till you feel it lock into its position(it will spin till it hits its mark then it will slightly drop and not turn any more)

#13) Now screw on the Rebound Adjuster till it bottoms out , it should be right at the locknut now , then using your 17mm and 21mm wrench , put them on just off above each other like before so you can squeeze them to tighten the locknut to the Rebound Adjuster (but the opposite way from each other than removal), once it is fairly tight , push down on the fork till you can remove the wrench/tool

#14)Slowly release pressure till the fork is extended , then tighten the Rebound Adjuster back in , snug it down firmly , then using a accurate Torque Wrench tighten it down to 69 N-m or 51 ft-lbs , re-adjust your adjuster to the number you wrote down during dis-assembly , by turning it all the way in , then out to the correct clicks

#15) Re-install the forks tightening the lower clamp bolts to 20 N-m or 15 ft-lbs , go back and forth between each bolt snugging till it stays at the recommended torque

#16) Tighten the Upper Clamp bolts to 22 N-m or 16 ft-lbs , before torquing the other fork , slide the axle in and make sure it is free , and slides in and out easily with no bind , if it does not , then slightly loosen the second fork (with the axle still inserted) and barely move it up, then check the axle , if its not free then go down slightly , till the axle moves in and out easily , then you can torque the second fork , then replace your wheel and finish assembly


This sounds complex , but once you do it you will see how easy it is ! , the way i explained this is so you wont loose any fork oil and are ONLY changing springs without rebuilding the forks

Hope this helped some

Wow, that is super detailed. Thanks a lot man. But I might as well change the fork oil and fork seals and dust covers if doing the springs right? Does this same procedure apply then?

Oh forgot to ask; with such a massive change in spring weight; will my suspension be out of whack unless I do some revalving (which isn't possible here)?

I'm 235-ish; big give or take I can't get the nitrogen recharged here, have to live with it for now unless I travel and take the shock and forks with me to get it done somewhere.

The forks you dont get recharged so you would not have to take them with you

As far as Revalve , you should ride it first and mess with the clickers before you decide , with the proper springs for your weight , the suspension sits higher up in the stroke so it will actually be plusher than it has been riding with the lighter springs , so you might like it the way it is since the valving will be able to work the way it is supposed to with the heavier springs made for your weight

On another note , i rode my 450X since 2006 when i got it new , with stock valving and springs , i just revalved it this last winter and went to 0.52 springs (i weigh 210) , i went 2 sizes larger for my weight , BUT , i revalved it super soft i also changed the Pressure Springs in the forks , stock is 1.9 and i went to 1.76 , this takes away the initial hits and harshness , so the combination of stiffer main springs , softer pressure springs , and soft valving works perfect for me and what i wanted the bike to do (basically its set up like a Endurocross bike) , the bike is super plush yet the forks stay up in the stroke and i can ride right over rocks and logs without even flinching , so a well done revalve can only make it better , and i wish i had done it sooner

Race Tech sells Do It Yourself kits for about $165 for the forks and the same for the shock (they sell them here), and you learn something along the way , and Race Tech has excellent Tech Support , i revalved both my bikes myself and they are way easier to ride and give more confidence because your not afraid to hit stuff because you know the suspension will absorb it

The choice is yours on how far you go , like i said , try just the springs first and go from there , shipping your suspension off would be your next option (as far as revalving)since you dont have any place local , and if your going to have someone else do your suspension , it should be someone that knows what they are doing that can set it up for your specific needs , but expect to be into it about $400-800 or more , depending on where you send it , i did mine myself for about $500 with all the parts per bike , excluding the Nitrogen tank which set me back $250 for the tank and regulators , but i can use that for many rebuilds , so for me it was worth the cost as opposed to sending my shock out every time i wanted to freshen it up

As far as the procedure being the same from my explanation to the one posted , the difference is , with mine you dont take the forks completely apart (like you would to change seals and the inner chamber oil and/or pressure springs) , and you dont loose any oil

Where doing it the way in the link , you are doing it to change oil and seals and inspect or replace some internal parts , so the forks are completely disassembled and cleaned , so the procedure is definitely more involved and you will need a few more specialty tools , which are listed in the link and they sell here , but if you follow the procedure in the link , you should be able to do it yourself with no issues

Sorry for the long replies , but i TRY to cover everything in one post , it makes it easier lol

Thanks once again, I think I'll just start with the springs first. I thought of taking the forks too for revalving, as I don't trust myself or anyone here to do a proper job.

I'll get back on here if I run into any hitches on the way.

Guys help me out; I didn't get any reply from racetech for my springs query.

My questions are: I've found the springs I want on their site but I'm not sure if I need any extra washers, spacers, shims, etc. to fit them. I had a bad experience last time for my R1 springs as I didn't know I needed spacers so had to wait a month to get them too.

Also, along with the springs should I change any other parts like seals, dust covers, etc.? This is all the stuff they sell for the forks:

Inner Fork Bushings (pair)
Outer Fork Bushings (pair)
Fork Seals (pair)
Dust Seals (pair)
Piston Rings (pair)
Damping Rod Bushings
Damping Rod Bolt Copper Washer or O-ring

Twin-Chamber Replacement Parts
Damping Rod Shaft Seal
Reservoir Rod Shaft Seal
Reservoir Piston External O-ring
Reservoir Piston External Sliding Bushing
Reservoir Rod Compression Post Stainless Steel - required for AMA Supercross

Or should I get one of the fork rebuild kits sold on crfsonly.com

What else should I be replacing on this forks? As you can see I'm a novice when it comes to suspension work so any help/advice offered would be great.

indianFighter wrote:Guys help me out; I didn't get any reply from racetech for my springs query.

My questions are: I've found the springs I want on their site but I'm not sure if I need any extra washers, spacers, shims, etc. to fit them. I had a bad experience last time for my R1 springs as I didn't know I needed spacers so had to wait a month to get them too.

Also, along with the springs should I change any other parts like seals, dust covers, etc.? This is all the stuff they sell for the forks:

Inner Fork Bushings (pair)
Outer Fork Bushings (pair)
Fork Seals (pair)
Dust Seals (pair)
Piston Rings (pair)
Damping Rod Bushings
Damping Rod Bolt Copper Washer or O-ring

Twin-Chamber Replacement Parts
Damping Rod Shaft Seal
Reservoir Rod Shaft Seal
Reservoir Piston External O-ring
Reservoir Piston External Sliding Bushing
Reservoir Rod Compression Post Stainless Steel - required for AMA Supercross

Or should I get one of the fork rebuild kits sold on crfsonly.com

What else should I be replacing on this forks? As you can see I'm a novice when it comes to suspension work so any help/advice offered would be great.

For the 250R you shouldn't need any spacers , as far as i know only the 450X and maybe the 250X use 10mm of washers/spacers , if you call Race Tech they can tell you , as i find it much easier to call then to email them , ask for Louie , he is one of the better techs and has been a great help to me in setting up my stuff and getting me the correct parts i needed when i re-valved both of my bikes , i call them all the time , they have great Phone Tech Support, though its not a toll free number

As far as internal parts , depends on the time on the suspension , if its been a year or more since anything internal has been done then it would be good to replace all the bushings and seals , the Free Piston Seal only needs replaced if when you are bleeding the cartridge the rod does not stay extended , that is how you know that inner seal is leaking , , and maybe the Free Piston O-Ring and if the piston bushings are worn just like the tube bushings then replace them as well , but they usually last much longer than the tube bushings , those would be considered standard "wear parts" , the shafts and such only need replacing if they are damaged or the coatings worn off

You will need a Fork Seal Driver Tool , and a Fork Cap Wrench , these are a must have if you do it yourself or you will scratch the crap out of the cap or round off the corners of the cap nut , a pan for the oil to drain into , and basic sockets and wrenches

If you have a vice , it helps to hold the fork tubes but use a rag or towel to protect the fork and "Do NOT Over Tighten the Vice" , just snug enough to hold everything

Anything else you can ask as you go , but unless the parts are excessively worn , you will not need to replace everything , unless cost is not a factor , you can get all the parts and specialty tools here or directly from Race Tech , ..your choice

JimDirt wrote:

indianFighter wrote:Guys help me out; I didn't get any reply from racetech for my springs query.

My questions are: I've found the springs I want on their site but I'm not sure if I need any extra washers, spacers, shims, etc. to fit them. I had a bad experience last time for my R1 springs as I didn't know I needed spacers so had to wait a month to get them too.

Also, along with the springs should I change any other parts like seals, dust covers, etc.? This is all the stuff they sell for the forks:

Inner Fork Bushings (pair)
Outer Fork Bushings (pair)
Fork Seals (pair)
Dust Seals (pair)
Piston Rings (pair)
Damping Rod Bushings
Damping Rod Bolt Copper Washer or O-ring

Twin-Chamber Replacement Parts
Damping Rod Shaft Seal
Reservoir Rod Shaft Seal
Reservoir Piston External O-ring
Reservoir Piston External Sliding Bushing
Reservoir Rod Compression Post Stainless Steel - required for AMA Supercross

Or should I get one of the fork rebuild kits sold on crfsonly.com

What else should I be replacing on this forks? As you can see I'm a novice when it comes to suspension work so any help/advice offered would be great.

For the 250R you shouldn't need any spacers , as far as i know only the 450X and maybe the 250X use 10mm of washers/spacers , if you call Race Tech they can tell you , as i find it much easier to call then to email them , ask for Louie , he is one of the better techs and has been a great help to me in setting up my stuff and getting me the correct parts i needed when i re-valved both of my bikes , i call them all the time , they have great Phone Tech Support, though its not a toll free number

As far as internal parts , depends on the time on the suspension , if its been a year or more since anything internal has been done then it would be good to replace all the bushings and seals , the Free Piston Seal only needs replaced if when you are bleeding the cartridge the rod does not stay extended , that is how you know that inner seal is leaking , , and maybe the Free Piston O-Ring and if the piston bushings are worn just like the tube bushings then replace them as well , but they usually last much longer than the tube bushings , those would be considered standard "wear parts" , the shafts and such only need replacing if they are damaged or the coatings worn off

You will need a Fork Seal Driver Tool , and a Fork Cap Wrench , these are a must have if you do it yourself or you will scratch the crap out of the cap or round off the corners of the cap nut , a pan for the oil to drain into , and basic sockets and wrenches

If you have a vice , it helps to hold the fork tubes but use a rag or towel to protect the fork and "Do NOT Over Tighten the Vice" , just snug enough to hold everything

Anything else you can ask as you go , but unless the parts are excessively worn , you will not need to replace everything , unless cost is not a factor , you can get all the parts and specialty tools here or directly from Race Tech , ..your choice

Thanks man. I got this bike a couple of months ago and it's a 2008; I'm sure nothing in the forks has been serviced or changed since new.

I'll just order the usual parts that can wear out as I don't have the liberty of opening up the forks and checking for what is needed then order stuff. Most of the extra stuff isn't really that expensive anyway. I'll also order those 2 tools you mentioned.

So from the parts listed above can you give me a list of what I should order; or can I order teh similar parts from crfsonly.com?

I will also call racetech today and speak to them about the springs and their take on the extra parts needed.

Thanks again man for taking the time to help me out.

indianFighter wrote:

JimDirt wrote:

indianFighter wrote:Guys help me out; I didn't get any reply from racetech for my springs query.

My questions are: I've found the springs I want on their site but I'm not sure if I need any extra washers, spacers, shims, etc. to fit them. I had a bad experience last time for my R1 springs as I didn't know I needed spacers so had to wait a month to get them too.

Also, along with the springs should I change any other parts like seals, dust covers, etc.? This is all the stuff they sell for the forks:

Inner Fork Bushings (pair)
Outer Fork Bushings (pair)
Fork Seals (pair)
Dust Seals (pair)
Piston Rings (pair)
Damping Rod Bushings
Damping Rod Bolt Copper Washer or O-ring

Twin-Chamber Replacement Parts
Damping Rod Shaft Seal
Reservoir Rod Shaft Seal
Reservoir Piston External O-ring
Reservoir Piston External Sliding Bushing
Reservoir Rod Compression Post Stainless Steel - required for AMA Supercross

Or should I get one of the fork rebuild kits sold on crfsonly.com

What else should I be replacing on this forks? As you can see I'm a novice when it comes to suspension work so any help/advice offered would be great.

For the 250R you shouldn't need any spacers , as far as i know only the 450X and maybe the 250X use 10mm of washers/spacers , if you call Race Tech they can tell you , as i find it much easier to call then to email them , ask for Louie , he is one of the better techs and has been a great help to me in setting up my stuff and getting me the correct parts i needed when i re-valved both of my bikes , i call them all the time , they have great Phone Tech Support, though its not a toll free number

As far as internal parts , depends on the time on the suspension , if its been a year or more since anything internal has been done then it would be good to replace all the bushings and seals , the Free Piston Seal only needs replaced if when you are bleeding the cartridge the rod does not stay extended , that is how you know that inner seal is leaking , , and maybe the Free Piston O-Ring and if the piston bushings are worn just like the tube bushings then replace them as well , but they usually last much longer than the tube bushings , those would be considered standard "wear parts" , the shafts and such only need replacing if they are damaged or the coatings worn off

You will need a Fork Seal Driver Tool , and a Fork Cap Wrench , these are a must have if you do it yourself or you will scratch the crap out of the cap or round off the corners of the cap nut , a pan for the oil to drain into , and basic sockets and wrenches

If you have a vice , it helps to hold the fork tubes but use a rag or towel to protect the fork and "Do NOT Over Tighten the Vice" , just snug enough to hold everything

Anything else you can ask as you go , but unless the parts are excessively worn , you will not need to replace everything , unless cost is not a factor , you can get all the parts and specialty tools here or directly from Race Tech , ..your choice

Thanks man. I got this bike a couple of months ago and it's a 2008; I'm sure nothing in the forks has been serviced or changed since new.

I'll just order the usual parts that can wear out as I don't have the liberty of opening up the forks and checking for what is needed then order stuff. Most of the extra stuff isn't really that expensive anyway. I'll also order those 2 tools you mentioned.

So from the parts listed above can you give me a list of what I should order; or can I order teh similar parts from crfsonly.com?

I will also call racetech today and speak to them about the springs and their take on the extra parts needed.

Thanks again man for taking the time to help me out.

id just get the pivot works fork rebuild kit comes with all the o rings bushins and seals if you are going the route of rebuilding your forks when you change out the springs.

also this pivot works video helped me along with my service manual when i rebuilt my forks on my 450 for the first time. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7ragnEDQ ... r_embedded

I would get the Bushings for the sliders , as well as the seals and dust cover/wipers , and go from there , as far as the inner seals go , you will not know until you tear it down , and try bleeding the inner chamber ,do you have a Factory Service Manual ?? , they are around $40- $60 , they sell them here i think , it will give you a complete breakdown of rebuilding the forks as well as shock (with the shock you will need someone to recharge the Nitrogen , but the work you can do yourself if desired and its completely covered in the manual)

As far as a list , basically , fork seals and dust covers (usually come as a set) , and the bushing kits , or just get the kits they sell here (you can also get Race Tech or other brand springs here as well)

CRF250R Suspension:
http://www.crfsonly.com/catalog/index.php/cPath/25_130

Fork Rebuild Kit:
http://www.crfsonly.com/catalog/product ... cts_id/902

Service Manual:
http://www.crfsonly.com/catalog/product ... ts_id/3226

Shock Rebuild Kit:
http://www.crfsonly.com/catalog/product ... ts_id/4315

Suspension Tools:
http://www.crfsonly.com/catalog/index.php/cPath/120_171

Wow that video makes it look real easy. Thanks a bunch mate. Are those 2 special tools, the wrench and fork seal driver sold by racetech or crfsonly.com. Are those tools standard or different depending on bike?

Thanks a lot Jim. I think it's easier to get the entire fork rebuild kit isn't it? I asked here if crfsonly can get me my weight springs but didn't get a response so I'll just buy the springs from RT and all the other stuff here. The pivot works kit has everything needed?

I'd rather not mess with the shock as there's no one competent enough here. I'll just change the spring. The forks I'll do myself along with my mechanic.

Besides the wrench and the driver, any other tools needed? I have fabricated something for my racebike which I use as a spring compressor so that is covered for the shock.

You guys have given me great confidence; I'd never have dared to do this without all your help. The last time I screwed up big time on my track R1 forks.