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Rear shock oil
Posted: Mon Sep 24, 2007 8:07 pm
by sbronco68
Ok guys so I know nothing about suspension so I though I would learn by rebuilding my front and back shocks. The fronts went well and the rear seamed very easy also. Though my biggest problem came in figuring out what oil to put back in and here is where my question comes in. My bike now bounces after a semi hard landing at the track off a jump. Now I know I may need to adjust my rebound but it never use to do that with the same settings. The guy at the local shop said this oil would work for both front and back did he lie?

Posted: Tue Sep 25, 2007 5:29 am
by 124
Did you recharge the Nitrogen (N)? Did you make sure that ALL the air is removed from around the bladder?
Posted: Tue Sep 25, 2007 8:37 am
by sbronco68
124 wrote:Did you recharge the Nitrogen (N)? Did you make sure that ALL the air is removed from around the bladder?
I sure think I got all the air out. I over filled the reservoir and when i put the bladder in the oil over flowed. I then had it charged with 160psi of Nitrogen. Then agin when I was bench testing it I think i mite have heard some air going through the valving. Could this be my problem?
Posted: Tue Sep 25, 2007 8:44 am
by Asmith
Yup, it will make it much more harsh.
Try this procedure to evacuate air without collapsing the bladder.
"-Place your assembled rod into the tube and run it through the travel until you have a
minimum amount of air in the circuits and valving. When bleeding don’t
pull too quickly on return as you will create a vacuum behind the piston. Also keep the
fluid level up in the body tube to prevent the rebound ports to go above the fluid level.
-Once the shock piston has been bled, place the rod near the top of the shock. Add fluid
and release the air simutaionsouly. Keep the fluid above the rebound ports, and continue
releasing air until you have no charge on the shock bladder. Pull the rod back up to the
highest point possible without going above the oil line. Top off with fluid and install the
seal head. Release pressure on the bladder as it fills the body with excess oil.
-Install the circlip and bottom out plate. Make sure the plate removal holes are 90 from
center so to make them easy to access when servicing shock again. Install using a soft
mallet. (We recommend a plastic mallet..)
-Charge the shock with 120PSI of clean air.
-Place the shock up right with the lower mount in you vise. Run the shock through full
travel 4-5 times. Check for feel, and inspect all seals for leaks.
Final bleed
-Make sure the rod is fully extended.
-Place the compression adjuster in the highest position.
-Reduce bladder pressure to zero. (If you want it’s best to remove core.. or you can
simply hold valve in during bleed, to allow atmospheric pressure to expand bladder to
full size.)
-Loosen the adjuster (just loose enough to let the fluid flow out)and let all extra fluid to run out.
At this point I inflate the bladder with no more than a couple pounds of pressure to ensure the bladder is fully inflated.
Then tighten the compression adjuster BEFORE you let the pressure out of the bladder.
-Reinstall Schrader core.
-Charge shock with nitrogen.
-Inspect for any leaks.
-Install spring and set preload.
-Set clickers"
Posted: Tue Sep 25, 2007 9:40 am
by sbronco68
~ wrote:Yup, it will make it much more harsh.
Try this procedure to evacuate air without collapsing the bladder.
"-Place your assembled rod into the tube and run it through the travel until you have a
minimum amount of air in the circuits and valving. When bleeding don’t
pull too quickly on return as you will create a vacuum behind the piston. Also keep the
fluid level up in the body tube to prevent the rebound ports to go above the fluid level.
-Once the shock piston has been bled, place the rod near the top of the shock. Add fluid
and release the air simutaionsouly. Keep the fluid above the rebound ports, and continue
releasing air until you have no charge on the shock bladder. Pull the rod back up to the
highest point possible without going above the oil line. Top off with fluid and install the
seal head. Release pressure on the bladder as it fills the body with excess oil.
-Install the circlip and bottom out plate. Make sure the plate removal holes are 90 from
center so to make them easy to access when servicing shock again. Install using a soft
mallet. (We recommend a plastic mallet..)
-Charge the shock with 120PSI of clean air.
-Place the shock up right with the lower mount in you vise. Run the shock through full
travel 4-5 times. Check for feel, and inspect all seals for leaks.
Final bleed
-Make sure the rod is fully extended.
-Place the compression adjuster in the highest position.
-Reduce bladder pressure to zero. (If you want it’s best to remove core.. or you can
simply hold valve in during bleed, to allow atmospheric pressure to expand bladder to
full size.)
-Loosen the adjuster (just loose enough to let the fluid flow out)and let all extra fluid to run out.
At this point I inflate the bladder with no more than a couple pounds of pressure to ensure the bladder is fully inflated.
Then tighten the compression adjuster BEFORE you let the pressure out of the bladder.
-Reinstall Schrader core.
-Charge shock with nitrogen.
-Inspect for any leaks.
-Install spring and set preload.
-Set clickers"
Wow Agent thanks I will give that a try. A few questions though:
1. When I install the seal head how does that not trap some air in?
2. What about the air (if their is air) in the reservoir side? How is that getting out?
3. What oil should I use? THe stuff I got was $20 a quart anything cheaper?
4. ANyone know of a cheep place to get the Nitrogen charged up around Orange County? I payed $15 last time for that I should just go buy my own bottle of N.
Sorry for all the questions

Posted: Sun Feb 22, 2009 8:04 pm
by hondacrf0585kx125
If you look at your seal head their are two small holes in the bottom. These alow the air to pass out from underneath the sealhead untill they are covered by the shock body. So, it is important to push the seal head in slowly while realing any charge in the blader. I do mine the exact same as he described, but when I finall blead I put 4 psi in the blader before I turn the comp. adj. out. This will not only ensure that any trapped air will be released, but also ensure the shock is not over filled with oil. I like to use Kayaba sso1 2.5wt. in my shock.
Posted: Sun Feb 22, 2009 8:10 pm
by sbronco68
Very cool, I had no idea about the holes in the seal to let the air out. THANKS