[JimDirt]

OK remember your normal setting (12 clicks out or whatever it is) , then turn the clicker all the way in clockwise (just so it barely stops do not screw it tight like a screw or you can damage the tip of the needle) , , this is your starting point to count the clicks , then turn it counter clockwise and count the clicks till it stops again , including half or quarter clicks , so if it stops and its in between clicks , like a half or quarter click , then count that in your counting , the total number (15,20,23,26 or whatever , is the number that is important)

So when you go to take it apart (to change the seal or to change the Pressure Spring as shown in the images i posted) you will see the locknut stops the cap part where the needle is from going farther onto the threads , this location of the locknut is what determines the number of clicks , it is set at the factory at the optimal number of clicks , so what number you count is the number it has to be when you re-assemble it

So by measuring where the locknut is as a starting point after dis assembly , when you re-assemble the needle and cap , you just snug it down to the locknut then count the clicks again , if it is not what you counted (exactly) then you need to move the locknut maybe 1/8 to 1/4 inch then snug it down and count again , you do this till its exactly as before you took it apart , then tighten it down tight (not real tight because its all aluminum)but tight as you feel safe using a open end wrench to know it wont come loose , then re-check the clicks , if its where it was originally , then your done

It sounds like a tedious thing , which it is , but its necessary to do for your suspension to work properly if you do decide to take it apart to replace the seal (the seal is about $10 per fork so $20 but its a precise job to replace it , the Fork Cap Assembly costs $113.49 to replace the unit from Honda) , so you have to weigh the options if the seal is bad , or send it to a reputable shop that knows how to do this (a suspension shop not the local dealer) to replace the seal or Pressure Spring , its not that hard once you do it , but its just tedious to do

(part # 15)
http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche.com ... FRONT-FORK

[argmister]

Ok I understand. Tedious yes, Rocket science no. I did make a mark on the threads under the lock nut before I removed it to get a jist of where it sat. And the threads are a tad discolored.

So I can get close to the original setting. And I can measure the one I still have together. (which I kept together just for this reason)

Total clicks is 24 1/8. I will most likely get new pressure springs. You recommend going a little lighter for initial smoothness on hits? liek a 1.9 or 1.7. And replace that seal since I am in there. Get one of those finger condoms and put over the threads. Race tech seems to be the only place that sells those seals..

[JimDirt]

Factory Connection , or Suspension Direct sells the seals as well , and yea if you want to buy the bullet (for the threads) instead of doing the tape that is fine as well , i was giving you the cost effective route with the thread tape

And yes once you start messing with the valving and things you will find its not that hard , the only hard part(more of a pain in the butt) is taking it apart 20 times to adjust the valving to get it just where you want it , as sometimes the recommended setup is not best for everyone , being older , or beat up makes a difference and it takes some tweaking to get it right , but even though its not a 1-800 number , Race Tech's support is pretty good , they will help you with issues and try to make sure your happy with the outcome , and like i said , if you choose to do the shock , the only hard part about it is if you dont have your own Nitrogen setup is finding someone with one and paying them $10-$15 to recharge it for you , it really sucks because its not volume its pressure , so its psssst , and about that quick its full , and dont touch the schrader valve to test it , if you go psst to see if it has pressure , you just blew it ALL out , its very minimal volume , a bicycle tube would fill a shock about 100 times in volume , but not pressure , i also went to 175 psi for the shock instead of the 142 or whatever Honda recommends , the shock just works better with it and its what Race Tech recommends

And yea i was figuring it was more like 26 give or take clicks , thats why when you said 15 or whatever i was like , thats not all the clicks or your bike is messed up , so glad you got it right , as i said that part is important , the rest you will sit there and wonder why suspension shops charge $1000 , its not that hard , but your paying for their supposed experience

As far as pressure springs if you mainly going to be riding off-road i would recommend 1.76 , it will be soft enough to kill the initial hits , and still allow the valving to do its job , its a common spec for off-road , but Kevin Windham also used that rate to ride Supercross and MX , because as i said , being older those hits bother us older guys more than a 20 year old

[argmister]

Def will bot be buying the little bullet thing. I have a ton of finger condoms, like when you cut your finger etc. Always cutting my fingers and band aids usually dont stay on for very long.

I work in the auto industry and have accounts with two big moto dealers out here so a recharge wont be an issue.

Haha yea it was a face palm moment when I reread your post and realized you were talking about total clicks.

Thank you very much for your help. Appreciate it alot. I think I am going to get some pressure springs and see how it goes.

[JimDirt]

No problem , glad to help , i dont know it all about suspension by a long shot , but what i do know , i am glad to share if it helps someone !!

Any issues you run into , just ask , no problem , i will either try to help or direct you to someone who can ! !

[Back2-2]

Dr. JD sure seems to be the definite suspension guy here on CRF's !!!

I have note dug into suspension any more than the basic rebuild & recharge but if I need more info. I know who I'm asking !
For what it's worth if any of you get into recharging yourself Argon is a great alterative to Nitrogen.

[JimDirt]

LOL Thanks .... i hope ! !!

As far as Nitrogen goes , i believe the reason it is mainly used it is because its less prone to building condensation , AND as opposed to Argon , it does not increase in pressure when heated , when a shock gets working hard , especially when a Pro is riding , the shock temperatures increase dramatically , Argon is prone to heat as far as maintaining a constant pressure , so as the temp of the shock increased and decreased the ride would also become unstable and become stiffer then softer , the longer the bike is ridden hard the shock will be stiffer then when the ride first started , then after it cools it will soften up making tuning harder because the shock would not adjust the same when hot as opposed to cool ...

I am far from a expert on this subject , but from what i understand this is why Nitrogen is the mainstay for shocks , is its tendency to remain stable under rising temperatures , where other gases though dry as well , are less stable when exposed to heat

[Back2-2]

Yes, argon gas is far more expensive than nitrogen. But many people with TIG welding equipment have argon at their disposal over setting themselves up with nitrogen.
I believe you will find Argon to be more stable and has a smaller molecular structure which will help the seals ability to hold pressure. The atoms in argon when bouncing off each other cause less friction and control heat generation over nitrogen.

This was just for information and people can use what ever they prefer. I am just adding a little of my experience from 40 years of working on motorcycles.

[JimDirt]

I agree Argon can be used with no bad effect , as can other inert gases , you can use air if you run it thru driers and can get the moisture out of it for that matter

Like i said , i am far from a expert on the molecular structure of gases , by a long shot , and i will note that my statement was based on what i have read on the subject more so than personally experimenting with different gases and how they function in a shock , i chose Nitrogen because of its wide use ,cost,and from what i have read it is very stable under fluctuating temperatures

Sometimes when experimenting with valving , i may just put compressed air into the shock for a few minutes , so i can get the feel of the valving change , though i take everything back apart and flush the shock to remove any moisture that may have accumulated , then when satisfied with what i think is the setup i am looking for , i put in the Nitrogen and give it a final test

That is why Baskin Robbins is in business , everyone likes something different , and i am in no position to discredit any of your or anyone else findings on the subject

Like i said , i am far from a expert on the subject and any input you or anyone else has i welcome with open eye's/ear's , that is what these forums are for , to help people with good info , and to learn from good info , if your looking for a expert , you need to talk to theDogger on TT ,lol , i call him when i get stuck on something , since he lives in my state, that guy can show most suspension shops a thing or two , he is a self taught Expert on the subject , yet he does this for fun on the side , its not his main business , which just blows me away , he will take time out of his day to talk to someone , just to help them out , asking nothing in return , he has helped me out a few times when i got stuck on something , and usually its pretty simple , i just missed it because i over though what i was doing


As far as suspension goes , i just enjoy messing with it and am still very much learning , and like experimenting and seeing what works and what does not , thats how you get better at things , right ? , and its not Voodoo and you dont have to belong to a secret society with complex handshakes and bizarre rituals , its just suspension ....

And yea i know....I talk/type a lot....