[JimDirt]

As far as a Spring Compressor , you will not need one for the shock , it is pretty simple (you did not mention if you have a Service Manual or not)all you do on the shock is

1)
Remove the shock (i can give you a detailed description how to remove it properly if needed)

2)
Loosen the Preload Locknut and then the Preload Ring till there is no tension at all on the spring and it will freely move up and down

3)
Look at the bottom of the shock where the spring rests , there is a aluminum collar , raise the collar towards the spring *it may be dirty so you might have to tap it with a rubber mallet* , you will see a C-Clip surrounding the shock body

4)
Remove the C-Clip and the collar *use a small pointed pick or small Flat Blade Screwdriver to remove the C-Clip*..... remove the Collar, then spring

5)
Install New spring , the Aluminum Collar **flat side faces spring , tapered side towards C-Clip** , and the C-Clip , pull the Collar down over the C-Clip , re-tighten the collars to about where they were before , but do not snug up the Lock Collar yet

6)
Re-install shock , then set your sag using a long Punch to adjust/tighten the Preload Ring **you can also just grab onto the spring and turn it Clockwise as sometimes the Ring grabs enough to allow tightening this way**, once your sag is set , tighten down the Preload Locknut so its pretty snug against the Preload Ring...Done...

The only other tools you will need is basic Metric Wrenches and sockets , it is nice to have a Electric Impact to remove the bottom Rebound assembly (under the fork lug where you adjust your Rebound) , but you can do it with a long Ratchet and i believe a 21mm 6 point socket , if you have a 32mm 6 point socket **it fits over the double pointed rectangle looking nut where your Compression Adjuster is**, it will help to take apart the Fork Cap Assembly , you use this along with the Fork Cap Wrench , "IF" you plan on changing the oil in there as well , if not just the Fork Cap Wrench is all that is needed to remove the Cartridge Assembly

[indianFighter]

As far as a Spring Compressor , you will not need one for the shock , it is pretty simple (you did not mention if you have a Service Manual or not)all you do on the shock is

1)
Remove the shock (i can give you a detailed description how to remove it properly if needed)

2)
Loosen the Preload Locknut and then the Preload Ring till there is no tension at all on the spring and it will freely move up and down

3)
Look at the bottom of the shock where the spring rests , there is a aluminum collar , raise the collar towards the spring *it may be dirty so you might have to tap it with a rubber mallet* , you will see a C-Clip surrounding the shock body

4)
Remove the C-Clip and the collar *use a small pointed pick or small Flat Blade Screwdriver to remove the C-Clip*..... remove the Collar, then spring

5)
Install New spring , the Aluminum Collar **flat side faces spring , tapered side towards C-Clip** , and the C-Clip , pull the Collar down over the C-Clip , re-tighten the collars to about where they were before , but do not snug up the Lock Collar yet

6)
Re-install shock , then set your sag using a long Punch to adjust/tighten the Preload Ring **you can also just grab onto the spring and turn it Clockwise as sometimes the Ring grabs enough to allow tightening this way**, once your sag is set , tighten down the Preload Locknut so its pretty snug against the Preload Ring...Done...

The only other tools you will need is basic Metric Wrenches and sockets , it is nice to have a Electric Impact to remove the bottom Rebound assembly (under the fork lug where you adjust your Rebound) , but you can do it with a long Ratchet and i believe a 21mm 6 point socket , if you have a 32mm 6 point socket **it fits over the double pointed rectangle looking nut where your Compression Adjuster is**, it will help to take apart the Fork Cap Assembly , you use this along with the Fork Cap Wrench , "IF" you plan on changing the oil in there as well , if not just the Fork Cap Wrench is all that is needed to remove the Cartridge Assembly

Wow that is really easy then. While I'm ordering stuff, I might as well order one of those preload adjustment spanners too, much more precise and easier than knocking the ring with a hammer

I'll be doing this with a mechanic so he has all the tools required except the special fork tools we need for the CRF forks (or any forks).

I do have the service manual too.

I'm ordering the stuff today and will keep you guys posted how it goes. If there's anything to add please do so. Thanks everyone and a special thank you to Jim for taking so much time to educate me.

By the way; what weight oil should I use? I'm heavy, our weather is hot and humid and our track is very very tight and small; jumps aren't really big.

[indianFighter]

Ordered the springs from RT and all this stuff from crfsonly.com

1 x CRF250R'04-09 - Pivot Works Fork Rebuild Kit (PWFFKH040202) = $71.20
1 x Cruz Tools Shock Spanner Tool (SPAN1) = $9.45
1 x Motion Pro Fork Cap Wrench (08-0236) = $19.94
1 x Motion Pro Ringer Fork Seal Driver (08-0492) = $42.74
Fork Driver Size 46mm/47mm
1 x Race Tech Graduated Cylinder 500cc (TFGC500) = $18.95
1 x CRF250R'05-09 - NGK R0409B-8 Spark Plug (7791) = $26.95
1 x CRF250R - K&N Oil Filters (6-Pack) (kn-116(6)) = $45.64
Crush Washer Kit Yes, Include
Oil Filter O-Ring Gasket Yes, Include
--------------------------------

RT doesn't have online payment and shipping calculation, they are going to get back to me tomorrow. In case that doesn't workout how is factory connection for fork and shock springs? I see that listed at crfsonly.com

[JimDirt]

As far as oil goes , 5 weight is what you want in the forks (3 weight in the shock if you were doing it)

The Springs are what sets the suspension for your weight not the oil , using lighter or heavier weight oil will make the suspension valving open sooner or later than it normally would in the stroke , so if you use too light of oil your fork will end up farther down in the stroke quicker when it would normally be in the beginning and it will "feel" stiffer than it actually is and bottom out easier , same goes for too thick oil , basically 5 weight is what is "normal" for dirtbikes , 7-10 weight is "normal for street bikes

I Re-Valved my 450X for basically Endurocross type riding (hitting logs and rocks and large objects), so i did the valving really soft , but use 2 sizes to stiff fork springs for my weight (205-210) , i should have a 0.49 , but installed 0.52 , if you watch Endurocross you will see their suspension is very springy and smooth , but goes right back UP in the stroke , that is from soft valving and stiffer springs , i am also older (53) and have broken my back 3 times and my neck 1 time (2009 for neck) , so i tend to like plusher suspension , but my R is stiffer than my X , but still plush (yes you can have both)

The point is to keep the bike up in the stroke which keeps the suspension from being harsh , if you (weather stock valving or modified)dont have a spring for your weight AND skill level , the bike will seem harsh and non compliant , faster more skilled riders tend to prefer stiffer springs , where riders who go slow or do not jump much or just trail ride , prefer softer springs and settings but its best to start with springs for your weight and go up or down depending on your specific needs

I track ride as well as trail ride and desert ride , so i had to compromise a little , but anyone who rides either of my bikes love how the suspension works , no matter their weight , i have my R set up much stiffer than my X and my R has lighter springs (0.49), but its still plush and does not beat you to death

You can mess with the oil capacity as well , i run 365cc in both bikes , stock is around 425cc for my bikes , and around 318-329 for yours (i dont have a 08 manual for your bike only a 07 and 09 so i am just estimating), you can either add or remove oil from the outer chamber and it will help you dial in your forks

If the clickers are not quite doing what you want and the bike feels harsher towards the end of the stroke , you adjust the oil level to fine tune the feel and bottoming , or if you find you are running out of clicker adjustments (if you have to set your compression clicker to 3-4 from all the way in , then add some oil and see if it helps (equal amounts in each leg 5cc-10cc at a time) , if after 20cc its not enough you might be in need of a re-valve or even stiffer springs

Disclaimer:
I am far from a suspension expert , but this has been my experiences , your mileage may vary !

[indianFighter]

Racetech recommend 350cc of oil. The manual gives another figure so I was wondering which one to follow. At the moment without opening the forks and running stock springs the front washes away pretty easily in heavy dirt.

Anyway, I'm not getting RT springs, I'm getting factory connection from crfsonly.com

[JimDirt]

RT usually recommends 350cc's , i found it to be a little less than needed for a heavier rider (me) , so that is why i went to 365cc , for someone around 180 it would be fine (just my opinion) oil volume is subject to variables , my personal outlook is , if your suspension does not bottom out you have enough in it , if it does then add 5-10cc's at a time in each leg till it stops bottoming , you should not have to go beyond stock recommendations otherwise you need stiffer springs and/or re-valving

A easy test is to take a Zip-Tie and put it on 1 fork leg (the lower chrome part), tighten it just enough so it will hold position but not be too tight and place it about 1/4 of the way from the top (closest to the seal) , then when you ride(or jump on the track)the Zip-Tie will show your lowest travel point

Normal is within 2 inches of the bottom going over the largest jump or obstacle you would normally ride , if it is within that range or farther up , your oil volume is fine , if it does bottom then add the oil in 5-10cc increments and try again , you should notice a slight difference each time in stiffness , this is all provided you have already set your clickers , i do as Race Tech recommends and start at 12 on the clickers its basically a center point of adjustment , currently i am at 8 on compression and 12 on rebound , if you have to go less than 5 (from all the way in) on the compression clicker you need to Re-Valve the bike stiffer

[indianFighter]

Thanks Jim, I'm gonna follow your method. Just as soon as I get the logistics to get the springs sorted out. Man what a pain for us folks to get cool stuff for our bikes.

[JimDirt]

Yea i hear ya !

I have been messing with and riding bikes since the 60's , but suspension is a whole different animal , sometimes it just takes time and process of elimination and experimentation to get it right , there is no "do this and it will work perfect" solution , its all subject to variables........

Think about the pro's , their suspension (and bikes) are re-built every few hours of use , to keep everything working at a specific level and feel , sometimes things dont go back exactly the way it was or some factor changes something , and they spend hours trying to get it right again , and lots of times they dont get it right , thats why you hear riders saying they tried a setup and it was not working and it cost them positions or caused a crash , a sand track setup is completely different from a hard pack setup , and its not just suspension , tire choice plays a part as well in how a bike suspension setup will work....again , its all variables.....

[der_berger]

motion pro makes all the tools and they arnt to expensive to buy either the fork cap wrench is specific to honda forks and the seal driver will do between a up to 45mm forks i believe

[indianFighter]

Yes the wrench and driver I got are motion pro. The goods have left from crfsonly; I should have them with me in a week.

I've got a novice race on the 1st but I don't think I'll be able to have all this fitted on by then.

[JimDirt]

You SHOULD be able to change everything out in a couple of hours easily (even doing it the first time) , if your worried about the time that the tubes have to sit to drain as per the manual , just take everything apart and use a pressure washer or a solvent tank (i have both) or a few cans of Brake Cleaner (about 4-6)and spray off all the grunge and then wipe everything dry with "lint free" shop towels (the blue ones **Scott** you can get at Wal-Mart work just fine , use a wooden broom handle to push a couple towels thru the tubes ,blow off any intricate parts with a air compressor , then once everything looks clean and dry start re-assembling

[indianFighter]

No no, not worried about the work. I just doubt everything will reach me before the 1st. Not a problem, I'll have it ready for the next race.

[JimDirt]

Oh ! OK Got ya !!

[indianFighter]

Yay I got the parts, I'm gonna start the rebuild on wednesday. I'll need to refill the fork dampener oil too?

After installation should I run the compression and rebound clickers in the middle to start off with or at my present settings? There is no standard setting in the manual.

For mx (hard packed mud and some loose mud), what tyre pressure should I run front and rear?

[JimDirt]

Yay I got the parts, I'm gonna start the rebuild on wednesday. I'll need to refill the fork dampener oil too?

After installation should I run the compression and rebound clickers in the middle to start off with or at my present settings? There is no standard setting in the manual.

For mx (hard packed mud and some loose mud), what tyre pressure should I run front and rear?

The cartridge oil is your choice , its not that hard to do once you do it , just make sure that when the assembly is out that the rod is extended all the way and if you push it in it returns fully extended , if not it may have bled down and will need to be freshened up , OR the inner Free Piston Seal is leaking which will need to be replaced for the fork to function properly , if it does not bleed and still sucks back in after bleeding tries(if you need i can talk/type you thru the procedure of changing it) , the seal itself is about $10 per leg

I dont have a 08 manual , but i have a 07 manual and a 09 manual ,, so you can kind of get a idea between the two

Fork 07 ............ Fork 09
Compresion: 8 .......... Compression: 7
Rebound: 9 .......... Rebound: 9

Shock 07 .............. Shock 09
Hi-Comp 1 3/4 - 2 1/4 Turns out.......... -same-
Lo-Comp 9 .......... Lo-Comp 11
Rebound 7-10 .......... Rebound 9-12

Tire Pressure is kinda tire dependent , some tires like less than others over the same terrain some like more , so you have to experiment to find what feels best

Stock is 15 lbs front/rear

I run (off-road)12 lbs front / 7-8 lbs rear Bridgestone M403/M604
Track 12 lbs front / 12 lbs rear on hard pack , 14/10 for sand Bridgestone M403/M404,M604, on both my 450R and 450X

Mud you tend to want the tire to fling off the mud so tire selection is just as important as pressure , as well as clicker settings need to be stiffened to compensate for the added weight of the mud