showa cartridge seal replacement
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    Benny477
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    by Benny477 » Tue Mar 29, 2011 6:10 pm

    I found out once you get the bottom off the seal is like a small fork seal. I`ll try and take some pics,but I never have posted pics before. What`s best way to post pics?
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    crfsonly
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    by crfsonly » Tue Mar 29, 2011 8:11 pm

    here's a how-to post a picture link:

    http://www.crfsonly.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=13007

    ken
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    Benny477
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    by Benny477 » Wed Mar 30, 2011 4:14 pm

    Ok,here`s the end of the cartridge rodImage and peened marks that neede drilled. You need a special tool also I found out from suspension direct that fits into the allen end on bottom.
    Image
    I`ll update when I get seals and special tool to finish.
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    Benny477
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    by Benny477 » Wed Mar 30, 2011 4:16 pm

    Well not the greatest post with pics,bear with me.
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    crf450319
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    by crf450319 » Fri Apr 01, 2011 12:02 pm

    Well, I haven't been on this board in a long time but I was searching on Google for some info on how to replace the cartridge seals and this thread popped up. So I thought I'd share what I learned. The fork pictured is from a 2007 crf450r :

    Wow, from what I'd read online I was thinking I should just send the cartridge(s) away to have the seals replaced. Which would have been a complete waste of time and money.

    I should mention that I do all of my own suspension work, I service my forks (both chambers) and replace the shock fluid every 20 hours of runtime. So far, the only job I'd farm out is a re-valve as there's just too much trial and error to do that on my own. So maybe if you've never had a set of forks apart, this job might not be for you ?

    3 things I learned :

    #1) This is far too easy to do, knowing what I know now I'd never even consider sending the cartridges away to have the seals replaced.

    #2) There's no need what so ever to spend $59.99 + shipping on a shaft holder, not that it wouldn't be a nice tool to have, but completely un-necessary.

    #3) ** MORE THAN LIKELY THE MOST IMPORTANT ** The thickness of the outer cartridge wall is approx. 1.51 - 1.6 millemeters thick, I more than likely didn't drill more than 1.4mm into the dimples. I'd drill for 2 or 3 seconds, then look at how far I'd gone, then drill 2 or 3 seconds and look. I did that until I thought I'd gone deep enough - Keep in mind you only need to go about 1.5mm.

    Here are some pics :

    Image
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    At this point I'd already had the seal head out, before I'd had it out the drill mark looked uniform and I couldn't really see the threads. I used my 2lb propane torch to apply some heat before I put the allen wrench on, I spent about 2 minutes warming the cartridge.
    Image
    Bought this 17mm allen head wrench for $22
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    Last edited by crf450319 on Fri Apr 01, 2011 12:14 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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    crfsonly
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    by crfsonly » Fri Apr 01, 2011 12:07 pm

    excellent post. so reinstalling it are you using loc-tite? blue/red?

    ken
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    crf450319
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    by crf450319 » Fri Apr 01, 2011 12:12 pm

    Hi Ken,

    Thanks ! If we all share info. everyone involved will benefit.

    I think I'd go with blue loc-tite, there wasn't any loc-tite on the threads that I could see so I'd guess there wasn't any applied at the factory ? I'm not real crazy about the red stuff (just my personal paranoia), I'm guessing the blue would suffice. Keep in mind that my guess is just that, a guess.

    Although I do have some red in my tool box....
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    crfsonly
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    by crfsonly » Fri Apr 01, 2011 3:20 pm

    the peening keeps the cap place so with those drilled out i believe loc-tite is required. the red stuff does take heat to loosen up to removed but it's not going anywhere otherwise.

    ken
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    Benny477
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    by Benny477 » Mon Apr 04, 2011 4:04 am

    Great post,I`m still waiting on parts to finish mine but have a much better idea of what to do.
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    Benny477
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    by Benny477 » Tue Apr 05, 2011 7:33 pm

    Okay I got parts and got the seal head off. I`m replacing the seal and bushing,I figure with everything apart replace what you can right. Do you need to heat the head piece a little to punch out the bushing? I thought when I put it back together I`ll freeze the bushing and heat the head piece again with a little wd 40 should slide right in.
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    Benny477
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    by Benny477 » Sun Apr 10, 2011 7:07 pm

    Ran into anther problem,when I put the rebound rod into the cartridge and screw on the end cap the adjuster won`t work. I`ve made sure the inner rod drops in all the way and the flat parts line up but then it won`t turn left or right.
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    crf450319
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    by crf450319 » Mon Apr 11, 2011 5:22 pm

    So your rebound clicker won't turn ? I'm a little unsure of what exactly you're talking about, but I'm guessing that your rebound adjuster isn't working.

    When you take your rebound clicker off the dampning rod can you turn the clicker in either direction ?
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    Benny477
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    by Benny477 » Tue Apr 12, 2011 4:08 am

    I got it fixed.
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    crf450319
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    by crf450319 » Tue Apr 12, 2011 4:40 am

    How ? What was the problem ?
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    crfsonly
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    by crfsonly » Tue Apr 12, 2011 11:56 am

    yes...inquiring minds want to know.
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