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I'm a newbie here and just bought my dream crfx 450 . Its 2006. I have little info on it as I am in the middle east (Oman, 5 hours from Dubai) and the person I bought from had little knowledge of anything nor was it taken care of properly I imagine. Their opinion over here I was told is if it aint smoking then don't rebuild. I doubt it has ever been opened up and had the piston, rings etc changed. So wondering what to do at this point. I want it like new but don't want to rebuild if not needed. I changed the oil which was filthy and plug of course and cleaned air filter which was also filthy that's it. I was told to change the oil every 3000 km here at the honda dealership and wondering if that is correct. I really want to make this bike like new and refresh it so am wondering what to do but without spending a ton of money if possible. I really don't know if I should rebuild carb and do the top end or just leave it as is. It has occasional misses and I'm not sure what that is from. That is the only thing I notice on the first ride. Not sure if that is from the muffler, carb or electric that would cause misses. I really want it to run smooth without occasional missing.

I need some websites where I can order and buy parts to refresh it and that can be shipped overseas here. Wondering if aftermarket parts are ok or need original. (like air and oil filter for example). I think I need a new muffler which is bent slightly just outside the engine and also the tail pipe looks like they cut it open for some reason and welded it back up. Why I don't know. So I am thinking to get a whole new pipe and wondering which aftermarket pipe is best. I also want to change all the plastics to make it like new. Fenders are probably ok I guess but all side panels and shrouds could use a change. I want to keep everything as close to original as possible.

I would greatly appreciate any feedback to the above or anything else you can suggest or help with for a new 450 owner. I have owned CR 250 and an MT 250(first bike in "76). First 4 stroke I have owned but have ridden them before. Old school 4 strokes though.
Thanks

Welcome to the site !!

The first question i have is , Have you checked the valves yet ?? , if they are out of adjustment , that could give you issues with the bike being finicky , and if they are going bad , it will lead to the bike not wanting to run at all eventually till they are replaced , it is a common issue with these bikes (most newer 4 strokes are this way) ,

What i would do is get yourself a Factory Honda Service Manual first , https://www.crfsonly.com/catalog/produc ... ts_id/3226 so you have the proper specs and procedures to follow , for example Oil Changes "recommendations" are just that , recommendations , you can go longer , especially if you are not in dusty conditions , if your riding desert (i am assuming you are) then if the oil "looks" dirty , then it probably is and will need changing closer to the specs given , but with the X it has separate oil locations for the engine and transmission , so the Engine side oil stays cleaner longer , because the shavings from the clutch are not contaminating the engine side oil

I personally have a 06 X and i am on the original Piston , Rings , Clutch , but i did replace the Intake Valves with Stainless from the original Titanium that failed not long after purchased , due to dirt getting past the air filter , after replacing , i have not had to adjust them since , the bike has about 3,800 miles on it of all off-road (about 6115 km) , so depending on conditions and how it was used or abused will determine what of what you listed , would need to be done , only inspection would tell , so no guarantee that you will need little or lots of work to get it up to "fresh" , each situation is unique

Ken (the owner here) sells pretty much anything you will need or want for the X in O.E.M. or aftermarket
(O.E.M.) http://fiche.worldofpowersports.com/yel ... ke-CRF450X
, (Aftermarket) https://www.crfsonly.com/catalog/index. ... 55_357_138 , and he can ship pretty much anywhere , the store is full of goodies for your bike , as far as the Header , if the dent is not really restrictive , you should be OK , most of our bikes have a dent in the header from hitting something , but generally if its not halfway collapsed or worse , its not restrictive enough to cause performance issues , with the muffler it is common for people to remove the restrictive baffle for more performance , but that should also require rejetting , which should be done to get the engine to perform correctly to your particular elevation , so you need to check the jetting , below is the recommendations as per elevation , use that as a guide , if your jets are not what is listed , then change them to that and see if you notice a improvement in running , the Fuel Screw would also need adjustment , it is on the underside of the carb at the front in the center , its in the hole , you can get a aftermarket Fuel Screw for easier adjustment , i personally recommend a R&D Flex Jet , it makes adjustment a breeze https://www.crfsonly.com/catalog/produc ... ts_id/2792

Jetting Guide for Main Jet:(pilot 45) CRF450R/X

Sea level....165
2000 ft.......162
4000 ft.......160
6000 ft.......158
8000 ft.......155


Temperature/Elevation:
One main jet size (up/down) for every 2,000 feet or 25 degrees in temp.

That should get you started on the right path with your bike , any other questions , just ask , i know i did not cover everything you asked , but look thru the store first (and these forums for a bit as there is plenty of info here and it will help guide you to do what is needed to keep your bike running for a long time) , before you start making purchases , that way you're not spending money on unnecessary items , and can put better use to your money and time

Hope that helped some

Thanks so much for the reply. Very detailed as I had hoped. Will have to copy and print and really read through it and discuss with a mechanic here. I am almost positive the engine has never been opened up so that means valves not checked. The oil and air filter were filthy so I am worried what that could have damaged. Valves? cylinder? I also highly doubt it is jetted correctly. I'm not sure they know that technical stuff here. I sure don't. Will have to ask around.

Thanks for the websites. Looks like parts are pricey. Someone suggested https://www.aliexpress.com/wholesale?in ... er_click=y

Their prices are more to my liking. But am wondering if the quality is good enough. I just want to buy like sprocket, brake caliper and chain guide guards. Also oil and air filters. Prices are much cheaper than the other sites I have checked. What do you think?

The shipping to Oman here is supposed to be cheap from aliexpress and sometimes free as well. My friend and I were going to order some bulk oil filters and new air filters. His problem is he has an old 94 klx 250. He needs a chain guide guard and I can't seem to locate for that specific year but found for newer models that have similar holes and wondered if they would fit. Any idea of that or of websites for parts for a 94 kawasaki?
Thanks again for the help and I will definitely be in touch back and forth until I really get up and running.

The link you posted looks to be off brand , knock off stuff , not sure of the quality , sometimes you luck out , sometimes , not so much , so even though the price may be cheaper , it does not alway reflect a "good deal" so do your research and look for reviews before spending your money , sometimes , you literally get what you pay for ..... and a "bargain" might not be one ...

Try these links for your friends KLX

New:
https://www.kawasakipartshouse.com/oemp ... 0-d2-parts

New and Used:
https://www.ebay.com/b/Motorcycle-Parts ... n_86795314

Hope that helped

Jim dirt, thats just what I thought. Just wanted confirmation. Its cheap china stuff but for guards like a brake caliper guard and such I think will be ok.

My biggest problem at the moment is I noticed an oil leak on the case next to the shifter and I traced it to a bolt on that case and tried to tighten it and it is stripped. I have no idea what to do at this point. Is there any easy way to fix it? What do you suggest? It started to tighten and then just when it got snug it when loose again. So I snugged it back up to that point and left it but oil is still slowly dripping out. So slow however that it cant be seen until later on. Appreciate your help as always.

On the case next the the shifter where ??? , is it in the ignition cover , where it bolts to the outer part of the case ?? , or in the main case ?? , is it the Transmission Drain bolt ?? , or Engine Drain bolt ?? , need more specifics

You can buy a cheap Helicoil kit , i just got this one on ebay to fix my Fork Lug bolts that were stripped , it comes with various sizes and everything needed to do the repair , worked great , even for a cheap set i am very happy with it .... https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-131pc-Stri ... 2749.l2649

Side note: , You will most likely (if its a Main Case thread stripped) , have to either pull the engine , or lay the bike on its side so you can get at it and drill/tap straight (depending on which bolt it actually is) or disassemble the engine to get at it and keep metal shavings out of the oil galleys , as long as the case itself is not broken (on the inside) and its not using a oil galley you should be good , just take your time with keeping everything straight and drill slowly and just enough to do the job , you may have to disassemble the engine , Or , replace the case depending on any damage beyond a stripped thread , as it all depends on how bad it actually is beyond the thread damage , as sometimes the case is cracked from over tightening or other damage and that is what causes it to strip

Hi again, I bit the bullet and took the bike to a honda dealership in the capital here. hope they can refresh the engine and fix the stripped bolts. I also need a new chain and was looking online and see gold o ring and DID and others. Wondered what an adequate chain is. if you really need to spend alot on one. I have seen prices from $24 to $65 on that aliexpress website.
I also may buy a new front sprocket if they tell me its in need and wondered what brand or expense level to buy on that. I read the
stock size is 13 tooth. Would appreciate your great advice as always. Thanks

Also the chain I saw that you are supposed to use is 520 114? is that correct or can you use other numbered chains?

Well I already feel like the dealership is screwing me. The mechanic told me yesterday that I need to replace the whole
carburetor. Have you ever heard of that and is it likely? They bike ran fine it seemed and I only thought maybe the
jets needed adjustment and it needed cleaning. So when he told me the whole thing needs replacing I felt it screw time.
He also told me I can't buy just the spark plug wire which I need. My friend here put a ktm one one cause the one that was
in it when I bought it didnt fit right over the spark plug. So I just want the cap and wire but the mech told me I have to get the whole
set. Coil assembly. Again I don't know if that is true or not. I can't believe you cant just buy the wire and cap to fit on the plug
without having to get the whole assembly. I tried to find a site that was selling that part but couldnt. Any advice and help
would be appreciated. Thanks. Steven

This is the estimate the dealership here gave me. Mind you I paid $2,333.00 for the bike. Their estimate is $2,620.00
The numbers are Oman riyals currency.1 riyal is $2.57 roughly. so multiple each part price by that. Have you ever seen anything
like this before? Hope dealerships are more honest in the states. the thing that pissed me off the most is they said the whole carb needed to be replaced. But it ran fine when I took it in. I told them it probably just needed cleaning and jets adjusted or replaced.
They came back saying the whole carb needs to be replaced. I'm going to talk to them tomorrow. I told them in an email and a phone call it appears they are committing fraud. Will see how it plays out.

M99 REPAIRE CHARGES 285.000
12391-MEB-670 *HTI*-GASKET 1 4.100
90543-MV9-670 RUBBER MOUNT 3 1.800
12226-MEB-670 SEAL RING 1 0.900
31919-MEB-671 *SKP*-SPARK PLUG IFR9H1 1 4.100
91312-KE7-003 O-RING 19X3 1 0.700
19523-KRN-730 JONINT WATER 1 4.400
14781-MAT-000 $-COTTER VALVE 4 2.400
14781-MEB-670 $-cotter valve 4 4.100
12209-GB4-681 SEAL VALVE 2 2.400
12208-413-003 SEAL VALVE STEM 2 3.100
14711-MEY-670 VALVE INLET 2 39.300
14721-MEY-670 %-VALVE EXHAUST 2 23.000
14751-MEB-670 SPRING IN. VALVE 2 2.800
14752-MEY-670 SPRING EX. VALVE 2 2.900
90004-GHB-670 BOLT FLANGE 6X25 ( 2 0.700
90442-397-000 WASHER SEAL 1 0.500
14560-MEN-671 GASKET TENSIONER LI 1 1.200
12191-MEY-671 GASKET CYL 1 2.700
11331-MEY-670 COVER R. CRANKCASE 1 44.400
11394-MEY-671 GASKET R COVER 1 5.300
91256-383-721 O-RING 178X24 2 1.000
91204-KF0-003 OIL SEAL20X28X5 1 0.900
16240-MEN-730 CLAMPER COMP. AIR V 1 1.600
90461-KZ3-J10 WASHER LOCK 18MM 1 1.000
19226-MEB-670 GASKET 1 0.900
19217-MAL-300 SEAL MECHANICAL 1 8.800
91201-965-000 $-OIL SEAL 1 0.700
91355-759-003 O-RING 21.8X2.4 1 0.300
11395-MEY-671 GASKET L COVER 1 3.100
13011-MEB-670 RING SET PISTON 1 11.500
16100-MEY-674 CARBURETOR ASSY. (FC 1 238.100
22870-MEY-670 Clutch Cable 1 5.400
28306-MEN-670 BOLT KICK JOINT 1 1.400
06405-KSC-003 CHAIN SET DRIVE 1 44.700
90105-MEN-000 %-BOLT 2 1.500
90309-357-000 NUT HEX. 8MM 2 2.000
30500-MEB-671 COIL ASSY 1 12.200
30700-MEB-671 BODY PLUG CAP 1 7.400
19037-KRN-641 CAP COMP.RADIATOR 1 6.800
19010-MEY-671 RADIATOR 1 69.100
19105-MG8-000 CAP ASSY 1 3.400
19102-MEY-670 HOSE RESERVE TANK 1 2.900
95005-5030030S TUBE5X300 1 0.500
96001-0603007 BOLT FLANGE 6X30 1 0.200
90461-KZ3-J10 WASHER LOCK 18MM 1 1.000
23801-MEY-670 SPRKT COMP. 1 12.300
28261-MEB-670 SPRING KICK STARTER 1 1.700
28215-MEB-670 PLATE KICK STOPPER 1 0.900
11100-MEY-A20 CRANKCASE COMP. R. 1 92.700
11191-MEY-671 GASKET CRANKCASE 1 2.900
91001-MEY-671 BEARING RADIAL BALL 1 12.300
91002-MEY-671 BRG ROLLER 1 11.200
91201-MEB-671 $-OIL SEAL 1 3.400
91202-MEY-671 $-OIL SEAL 1 3.400
MCON CONSUMABLES MECHANICAL 7 7.000
CHK & REPORT BIKE DOES NOT START 0.000 0.00
1,010.000
NET PAY AFTER DISCOUNT 1,010.000= $2,593.00

Wow that is quite the list , I have a few questions

Is your Radiator leaking ?? , as its listed in the parts list

The list says the bike is not able to run , but you were riding it , so what are they claiming is the exact cause of it suddenly not running for them , when you were riding it ???

Did they say why the carb would need replacing as opposed to replacing possible clogged jets or jetting for the elevation ?? , the carb can be rebuilt without replacement , unless the carb body is damaged somehow , which i would find almost impossible to be the case

Most everything seems very unnecessary about this estimate , it is possible that the valves are going , and that could end up in the $500+ range , the stripped case bolt , is a bit of work , but not the need for a total rebuild along with replacing parts that have nothing to do with a stripped bolt , like the carb and radiator , so I am not sure what they are trying to do , i would tell them you ONLY want what is absolutely necessary to make it run properly with Jetting and fixing the case , and "checking" the valves , and ask how much that would cost (if the valves are out of adjustment , they will eventually need replacement , , and it would be a good idea to replace the piston and rings along with the valves but i am not saying that has to be done now , as it sounds like the bike is running ...or was running too good for the valves to be the issue) , if they still insist on doing the complete engine and replacing the carb , i would look elsewhere , or buy yourself a Service Manual from Honda and you can do the majority of the work yourself if you are somewhat mechanically inclined

As for the Chain , a 114 is for the stock 13/51 gearing , if your content with the current gearing for the riding your doing then a 114 along with new sprockets is correct , otherwise you will need to regear , which would possibly require a different length chain , depending on what sprocket sizes are used , I personally prefer Non O-Ring chains , as i feel that dusty or muddy conditions will ruin a O-Ring chain faster than a non O-Ring chain , i personally prefer DID or ER (both Gold chains) for the chain , for sprockets , i just go with cheaper Steel sprockets as they last much longer than Aluminum , the only advantage to Aluminum is for weight savings , if your not racing at the highest level , I feel its a unnecessary expense , especially for the shortened life span

I would ask them what Jet sizes they found in the carb , and match that to the list i posted earlier , if the jetting does not match what the list says for the elevation you are at , then change it to that and you should be good , you might need to replace the carb Slide Floating Valve Seal https://www.crfsonly.com/catalog/produc ... ts_id/3687 , as they can cause bogging and idling issues

Again , from your original description , the bike did not sound like its in need of a complete engine rebuild and i would definitely not believe the carb needs replaced for any other reason than some part of the carb body is severely damaged , generally a carb "rebuild" which would consist of jets and O-Rings and seals , and possible Needle and Seat and a thorough cleaning , would be sufficient for most any issue you could encounter with the carb

Like i mentioned before , you could send your head here or even ship your complete engine and know that it would be repaired correctly , and nothing "unnecessary" would be added to the cost , you could contact Ken for a "estimate" and go from there , but either way , i am thinking you need to find somewhere else if your going to pay someone to do the work , as i believe there are things on that list that should not be there , and I am not sure you would be happy once all is said and done , or might be worse off than you are now , as I would guess from that list , that in the event something went wrong , or you had the same issues later on , they would not stand behind their work ....

As usual you are right on all counts. I had to go there and speak very strongly to them about how it looked fraudulant and why they would make such a ridiculuous list. They try to claim that any parts that are slightly questionable to them that may result in the bike not performing perfectly and thus they can not warranty the work so they just add them on. After I got done with the head manager I sat down with the mechanic and went over the whole list while looking at the bike and he admitted what I could get away with not replacing and what in his opinion was definitely needded.We basically cut the list in half.

For small parts that were a buck or two I didnt bother and just let him keep them on there.

I have been looking on https://www.aliexpress.com/ for the chain but can only find o ring types. I don't know if its my searching ability or they don't have them. Could you give a look please and see if you find it? my buddy and I bought about 10 items and most are free shipping to Oman which is a big deal for us. We got air and oil filters and a front sprocket for me and some other stuff. got some slime for my daughter too.hehe.
I would love to get the chain if you can find and recommend one for me. Please send me the link or links as usual.

Thanks as always.Steven

Here ya go , there are several to choose from , the search term i used was "motorcycle 520 non o-ring chain" ,(520 being the chain size , depending on your gearing , what i would do is look for a 120 link chain , the stock length is 114 link for a 13/51 sprocket size , so if your not using that , then get the 120 and it will save you issues , then cut it to length using a Chain Breaker tool , you will remove the outer link so when the master link is used it will be the correct length , just set the axle to the center of the adjustments or slightly towards the short side of the adjuster , so when the chain stretches you will have adjustment left)

This is the results i got using the search terms i mentioned

https://www.aliexpress.com/wholesale?ca ... ring+chain

Man, I tried to search that way and I didnt see them. I notice all are only $23 but then the shipping adds and additional 470 to make it $100. Wow. Only one, was cheap cheap and cheap shipping and added up to $35. Do you think that would be a mistake to get that one? https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Univers ... autifyAB=0

All i can say is (and i understand cost is a issue) that as far as chains go , you get what you pay for , the chains i buy usually cost around $85 - $100 not counting any shipping , its the cost of the chain itself , i have found that when you buy a $20 chain , you get a $20 chain , and it will last accordingly , more than likely a month or so or a few months if your lucky , the cheaper the chain , the faster and easier it will stretch , destroying your sprockets and possibly even the engine case if it snaps

You can save money buying parts , but some places on the bike , you should get quality parts , internal engine components is 1 , and a "name brand"chain is the other (D.I.D. , ER , etc) , you don't need the top of the line chain , but a good high quality "name brand" chain is what i would recommend , i can relate on cost being a major issue , but some parts i just won't compromise by using a "generic" brand , you will be happier in the long run , , especially when the cheap chain kinks up or stretches beyond adjustment and ruins your new sprockets within a month or 3 , or worse yet (this happens more often than not) , your cheap chain snaps because of poor quality material and the chain slams and bunches up into your engine case and then you will not only have to replace the chain , but a engine case that will cost 10 times what you spent on the inferior chain .....

I understand shipping costs are a issue for you , but some parts you are better off getting quality for your dollar , rather than thinking you're actually saving money by buying inferior parts that will cost you much more in the long run , i would never buy a "generic" piston , valves , or chain and compromise my engine or my safety to save cost , , in other words , a $20 chain , to me , is not worth $20 when it comes to failures or longevity being a very high risk ......