[wyatte11]

I just rebuilt the carburetor, changed the spark plug and got it all put back together. I go to kick it over and about every 3-4 kicks it pops, sounds like a backfire. What do I need to adjust? Please for the love of Jesus don't tell me I need to pull the carburetor again. 😓

[JimDirt]

If you set the fuel screw where it was before and its popping then you have something causing a lean condition , make sure the Hot Start lever is working freely , if it sticks open it will cause a lean condition , if that checks out and your POSITIVE your pilot jet is clear , make sure the O-ring for the fuel screw is in place , not torn and not damaged , as this will cause a lean condition

Did you replace the pilot jet or did you clean it , if you cleaned it did you use a actual jet cleaning tool ?

Did you spray carb cleaner directly at the slide ? , if so you might have damaged the floating slide plate seal , it can be replaced/inspected by removing the top of the carb while still on the bike and you can remove the entire slide assembly

Did you remove the muffler/header ?? , if so there may be a leak , a leak in the exhaust system will cause a lean condition popping

confirm these things and report back ,, even changing the pilot can be done without removing the carb , by loosening both clamps and twisting the carb so the bowl is facing you , it will only go about 35-40 degrees because the cables will keep it from rotating further

[wyatte11]

I replaced all the jets, needle, orings, etc. I used a little brake clean just to clean the dust out since it sat in my garage off the bike for a week. I didn't pull the muffler but I replaced the spark plug and battery (battery was totally dead) and now it won't even pop, I'm taking it to a local shop that I trust and have them take a look, I think my rings may be messed up because it's been hard to start ever since I bought it. I don't think it's building enough compression to start.

[JimDirt]

Has the bike sat for over a month with gas in the tank ??? , if so DRAIN THE GAS and put it in your car or lawn mower , it wont run in the bike if its sat for more than 1-2 months without additives , put in FRESH PREMIUM then see if that helped


Have you checked your valve adjustment ?? , it sounds like that is the issue now that you have elaborated on what its been doing , i am thinking the intake valves have tightened up , if its been getting progressively worse , then that sounds like it might be the issue , if you check i am betting one or both of the intakes will be at 0 , ..... do you have a manual for the bike ?? (Factory Honda Service Manual , or Clymers **dont like Clymers too vague **) , your settings should be

Intake: 0.006 (+/- 0.001)

Exhaust: 0.011 (+/- 0.001)

Check it by aligning ALL the timing marks (4) , one is on the Ignition/shifter side , the small plug with the Allen head , the second is on the Clutch side right behind the water pump (large Allen head) and the 3rd and 4th are on the cam sprocket , looking from the left side , there are 2 slashes like this - - one on each side of the gear , they need to be level with the head along with the other marks aligned at the same time , the cam lobes will be facing backwards at about a 2pm position , check the clearances then report back

Usually the Exhaust stays in place , its the intakes that usually go bad , if it is the issue (you can check them yourself , no sense paying a shop to do it) , if they are out of spec , then you will need to pull the head and either replace it (Ken sells complete heads here) , or repair it (Ken does valve jobs here as well) or you can take it to the shop of your choice , though do NOT take it to a Automotive Machine Shop UNLESS they know modern 4 stroke engines and that has a reputation for doing quality work ON DIRT BIKE ENGINES