[Kyle450x]

Well i've been looking into buying an HID kit (35W) for my 450x and I would like to be able to tunr it on or off (no need for HIDs at the track etc).

Also I was talking to a guy at the JCR Christmas Classic and he told me he has been running the 35w hid kit in his headlight housing without re-winding or buying a new stator and has had no problems for 2 years now... Any theories on this?

[gal8x]

The 450x has a 48watt charging coill in the stator. 35watts of that is for the light. You can run any 35 watt system off it.
Wiring a switch is as easy as installing it. Just splice in to one of the wires going to the light.

[terb]

If you do this, splice the switch to the ground wire, that way if it ever shorts out for any reason it would only turn the head light on.[/img]

[Kyle450x]

If you do this, splice the switch to the ground wire, that way if it ever shorts out for any reason it would only turn the head light on.[/img]

Which ground wire should I splice it to? The headlight ground?

[terb]

Yes the one that connects at the bulb

[Kyle450x]

So today I went about installing the HID kit. Although my halogen bulb worked great, when I plugged the + and - connections onto the stock wiring harness, the HID would not fire. After testing it on my truck, it all checked out good. So now i'm just gunna wire it directly to my battery. Any insight there? I'll run it off a switch of course, maybe aan inline fuse too? What wattage fuse? 35?

[gal8x]

So today I went about installing the HID kit. Although my halogen bulb worked great, when I plugged the + and - connections onto the stock wiring harness, the HID would not fire. After testing it on my truck, it all checked out good.

the ballast for a HID can be designed for either a DC or AC input. If your kit tests good on your trucks DC system then the ballast wont fire from an AC supply. Is that what the installation told you to do?

So now i'm just gunna wire it directly to my battery. Any insight there?

Revised.
What is: The charging coil produces 48 watts power. The regulator has to be rated for that. Which it must be or thy would be burring up (taking the stators with them) every time the light went out.
When the bike is running 35 of that 48 is under load, being used by the light. So even thou the regulator needs to be rated for 48 watts it normally only uses 13 watts to charge the battery.
What will be: Moving that 35 watt load to the other side of the regulator will make the regulator support that load constantly. Which it will do… for a time. A shorter life is guaranteed but still may not be enough to worry about. If the physical temperature of the regulator is ‘HOT to the touch’ then I would replace it with a more durable regulator.” This will be problematic because you will be looking for an aftermarket high watt regulator designed to work with an OEM stator.”

maybe an inline fuse too? What wattage fuse? 35?

That circuit is already protected by a 15amp fuse.
If you wish to fuse the light circuit then a standard ATO fuse from the auto parts store will work fine. OHM’s law: 35w divided by 12v = 3amps.

[JCPerson11]

Most HID kits are made to run off of a DC circuit not and AC circuit. So the stock honda stator will not fire an HID bulb off of the headlight since it is AC. You are going to have to buy a different stator to run the HID.

[riddler9]

What kit did you buy? Some do require a new stator, but others need a stator wind, AC regulator, a rectifier, other, or some combination of these.

[Kyle450x]

I got the DDM tuning H6M HID kit (35W). I ended up wiring it off the battery, with an inline fuse and a switch. Works great!

Only question: if this is a 35W HID, and OEM stators put out 35W, will I slowly drain my battery when I have the light on and the bike running? Between the coil, electric start, etc

[gal8x]

Yes. You are pulling off the circuit that runs the bike. you need to pull from the other stator winding. Preferably before you need to order a new one.

I don’t like how this is worded so I am revising it.
What you have done is move the load (the energy that drives the light ) to the opposite side of the regulator than the circuit was designed for. If the OEM regulator can handle 48 watts ‘continuous’ duty then the circuit should hold. Personally I would install a 55 watt regulator, bigger is better as you know.

PPS. You cannot use the old headlight wiring. If you load that circuit you risk overtaxing the stator.

[Kyle450x]

Yes. You are pulling off the circuit that runs the bike. you need to pull from the other stator winding. Preferably before you need to order a new one.

I don’t like how this is worded so I am revising it.
What you have done is move the load (the energy that drives the light ) to the opposite side of the regulator than the circuit was designed for. If the OEM regulator can handle 48 watts ‘continuous’ duty then the circuit should hold. Personally I would install a 55 watt regulator, bigger is better as you know.

PPS. You cannot use the old headlight wiring. If you load that circuit you risk overtaxing the stator.

So what is the point of buying the new rectifier? It converts AC/DC oem unit to pure DC, but whats that matter if everyone pulls power from the DC battery anyways? *this would in junction with a re-wound stator*

[gal8x]

Your stator is rated at 48 watts continuous duty My Clymer has it listed at 76 watts at 5000 rpm. They are probably combining the exciter and charge coil outputs. So long as you don’t load it past say… 50 watts then it will not fail.
Your regulator is another matter, it does not supply the starter. The regulator only needs to charge the battery and ICM. Now the Honda engineers could have required the regulator to be rated for 48watts but knowing the industry as I do I doubt they did. Better = more expensive. Keep in mind that Honda does make a very good product.
If I had the specs for the regulator I could offer better advice. For now all I can say is keep an eye on it. Put your finger on the regulator after ridding, if you can’t keep touching it then I recommend a larger regulator. I would also price a AC ballast with the idea of moving the load back to the AC side of the stator. Pick whichever is cheaper and be done with it.