[smokey9lives]

I have an 04 CRFx that would not start. Originally I though it was electrical but then I pulled the tank and fuel lines and there was a lot of white crud at the ends of all lines from the tank and petcock valves. I removed the float bowl drain plug and it was caked with amber crud so I have now disassembled the carb and I'm soaking all the jets and covers to remove any buildup.

My bike has a FMF Q4 and has already been jetted for that muffler and airbox mod. I'm rebuilding the carb with a All Balls Carb kit. Is it OK to just use the jets that were in the carb if they have been cleaned? They all look open though some needed cleaning. The needle looks good and does not show wear that I can see - though it is my first carb rebuild!

Also, is it necessary or advisable to use the All Balls Mid-Body Gasket Kit? https://www.allballsracing.com/26-1510.html
The tops of the allen bolts that hold the mid-body casting onto the main casting seem to be filled with something like an epoxy or sealant. I'm worried about stripping the hex heads - and opening that can 'o worms..So, is it recommended to replace the mid body gaskets if you are just cleaning and rebuilding the rest of the carb?

I also have the CRFs Only Accelerator Pump Kit on order so I'm replacing that as well.

Do you think I should spend the time to check the valves if the bike was starting/running until it sat for 3 months?

Thanks!!

[JimDirt]

You can reuse the jets IF you either have the Jet Cleaning tool (K&L makes one) , or if you have soaked it , overnight if possible , in Carb Dip (carb spray won't clear a really clogged jet , but Carb Dip will) , once cleaned you would need to blow all jets out with air (or the carb body , etc , do not let ANY rubber parts come in contact with carb cleaner or dip , they will either fall apart or turn to mush ...... If you got the "kit" and it is for your bike specifically , it "should" have the correct size jets , or at least what OEM specs recommend ........ The "middle" part screws should be Torx or Allen Security screws with a bump/pin in the center , any store that sells bits , sell Torx or Allen Security bits with a hole to accommodate it , if you see any color in it , it is most likely paint that Honda put in to show if it has been tampered with .... The bits will look like these ...

As far as actually disassembling the mid body , unless you are dipping the body , you should not need to .... however , if the carb is heavily gummed up and has internal blockages , then you "should" take it completely apart , ....... aside from passages , all that is in there is the gasket/O-ring , do not forget to remove the fuel screw and spring , washer, and O-ring , and the slide and Floating Slide Plate , and remove the O-ring/Floating Slide Plate Seal
, along with the Fuel Line connector (the moveable brass fitting on the side that the fuel line goes it , it has a phillips screw on the back side of the carb body for it , and the fitting has 2 O-rings on it , also remove the Accelerator Pump Diaphragm (beneath the 3 screws on the A/P) make sure when taking it apart to note the orientation of the diaphragm , it has to go in a certain way , and make sure you put the spring on the correct side or it will not pump/work , there are also jets in the bottom of the bowl that need to be removed and cleaned or replaced

[smokey9lives]

Thanks for the guidance!

[campervan]

Do the mid body!

It was my main problem. I Paid to have carb rebuilt at dealer. They didn't touch it.
And the carb half worked till I did it myself.

Also pull the filter from the tank and see if it is disintegrated.