Welcome to the site !!
Yea , I agree with Ray on this , they should not leak if the seats were cut correctly , etc. and yes I was riding

.. question , does this guy do bike valves mainly , or is this just some mechanic that works on cars that said he could do this ?? , these valves require special cuts and tools , although he is correct about the seat depth , if it is cut too deep then what happens is the stem sticks out farther , then what happens is you need smaller shims because the distance is less , then if it is cut too deep then you can't get a small enough shim to fill the gap , so then once the first valve adjustment comes around , then the head is toast because you can't adjust it without replacing the seats or possibly scrapping the head ...... unless you take it to someone who really knows these heads and they replace the seats , which is basically like starting from new ..... but no matter what , they should not be leaking , the entire point of the valve face matching perfectly with the seat is so it seals .... and DO NOT try to lap them ... bad juju

...it will kill the valve right away
My personal opinion ( I get nothing out of this , just know what kind of work he does) is to send the head to Ken , here , and have him go over it , he will give you a honest and fair evaluation of what it needs or if it needs anything , and what way is best to go ...
On a side note ...I am guessing you bought the bike used ... do you know how the original owner maintained the bike or how he rode it ??? , my guess is he was riding in real dusty conditions and possibly dirt was getting past the filter to the inside of the air boot ??? , as this is usually what takes out valves quickly , not sure how many hours you have on the bike or if you know (I put a hour meter on mine before I ever rode it) ... dirt is the killer of valves .... unless you are or he was bouncing off the limiter all the time like Justin Barcia ... you should get a couple seasons out of the valves
I have 64 hours on my 20 with no issues , I plan on going to 100 then doing a piston and popping the valves out and taking a look at the valve faces at that time for cupping/wear
But seriously , Ken does excellent work at fair prices and is honest as they come , you can even get a complete ready to go head from him if there are serious issues with yours ... you will not be disappointed with his work or prices .. That is my recommendation , so you know what you have and what "needs" to be done with it to make it right .. I sure would NOT take your head back to the guy that did it ....he should stand behind his work and try to make you happy regardless of why it is leaking , you did not pay him to get back a head in basically the same condition you sent it to him in
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