CRF's Only Forums

OK been a member for a long time and havent posted for awhile. Its time for my valves to be checked and more than likely shimmed. I am deathly afraid of screwing things up. I've read almost all the threads on valve maintenance etc etc. Im planning on going to ocotillo wells a week from today. With any and all the help i can get id imagine that i can get this done before then??? i am going to be burning the midnight oil at work as well so my time is going to be an hour here and an hour there. Any sort of tips and tricks all of you wise experienced gentleman can provide would be great. Heh heh id by lunch and beer for any of you guys that are bored in the San Clemente area that are lookin for somethin to kill time. IM DESPERATE AND WANNA RIDE

You may or may not have already seent his but:
http://crfsonly.com/howto/index.php

Yes yes indeed i have seen that.....Actually i am probably being a big sissy. But i just really dont want to screw up my Baby. But if i ride it like it is i may do worse. I really dont have the money to have it done at a shop so.....here goes nothin. MY WIFES A GREAT COOK!!!! YOUR BEER OF CHOICE!!!!! Bueller.....Bueller???.......anyone???......Bueller

besides the how-to we also offer a dvd that walks you through it step by step. it's great to watch one before you actually do one....at least that's what surgeons tell me.

ken

Watch one

Do one

Teach one

ok ok so i finally broke into it......Uhhhhhh....what do i do when i cant fit the smallest gauge into the intakes. i didnt even bother checking the exhaust yet....i got discouraged. Its not both of them tho so is there hope??? someone help please

Go 2 shim sizes smaller until the feeler gauge will fit. If it went to zero and it was ridden, then order the stainless stuff now. You will be performing the repairs after your next ride or 2. It is likely the damage has been done. And it is also likely that your next shim operation will only last a short time...

Keep a CLOSE eye on them now...check them after every ride.

NoWheeler wrote:....what do i do when i can't fit the smallest gauge into the intakes?

Assuming you are confident you did it correctly, I'd first be curious as to the smallest gauge size you used...just to make sure. If, in fact, you're pretty much down to zero...I'd listen to 124 (he know's what he's talking about.) I've had my bike since May. I'm not a track racer (bike has only seen the track once and that was for fun,) have done a couple Harescramble/Enduro events, and mostly ride woods. My valves haven't budged...I just checked them last weekend.

Be sure of your technique when checking those intakes. Also, make absolutely sure your piston is in the correct position. I have found the owners manual (rather than the shop manual) more handy for instructions on checking/shimming the valves.

When I first started checking the valves, I wasn't always confident that I had the engine in the right state for checking. If you're not sure that your piston is in the right spot and the punch marks are a bit confusing, you can use a plastic drinking straw to make sure your piston is in the right position. After removing the spark plug, put the straw in the plug hole so that te end of the straw is resting on top of the piston. Rotate your crank until the straw is at its highest (or most upper) position (you'll see it move when you rotate the crank.). If you don't have a straw, you can use just about anything similar...just be sure to use something that won't scratch/marr the top of the piston. The two intakes lobes should be facing toward the rear of the bike.

I may be telling you a bunch of info you already know. If so, sorry for wasting your time. I am NOT a mechanic and when I first started checking my own valves, I was confused as hell. Hope it all works out for you! Good luck!

Thank you all so much for the advice...even though some of it sounds.....not so good???....anyway because of the amount of confidence I have, the amount of time, and the urgency of this repair, I'm going to take it to a shop. So Kibblewhite here I come!

oh yeah smallest feeler i went to was .002 the one thats bends and creases if you look at it funny. I'm Hosed aren't I??? i don't do any track riding either just desert stuff, my bike is also geared pretty high but i still have ridden it once or twice pinned in 5th for a little while. I have the vortex ignition on it, so i think i am gonna find a map with a lower rev limiter now. I cant afford this.....BUT ITS TOO FUN TO STOP!!!! boy is Mama gonna be pissed.

How was your bike running ? If it started easily and ran fine your intakes weren't at zero,instead there was a measuring error. So many people don't take that into consideration and wind up with a mess on their hands.
When a bike gets to where it does need shimmed the time is very near to needing new valves and seats cut/head replacing anyway.

Be sure of your technique when checking those intakes. Also, make absolutely sure your piston is in the correct position. I have found the owners manual (rather than the shop manual) more handy for instructions on checking/shimming the valve

sI thought the owners manual was pretty darn good,too,and that video Ken has is really outstanding.
The other thing I always tell people is for sure make sure you have the engine at TDC like nedirtbikr said,and here's one of the most common errors :
http://i86.photobucket.com/albums/k98/r ... -Marks.jpg
Hey,eventually all modern thumpers need valves, just make sure if yours does that someone who knows what they're doing cuts your seats, or just replace the head while you're at it. Doug

[email protected] wrote:How was your bike running? If it started easily and ran fine your intakes weren't at zero,instead there was a measuring error.

This is a big ditto! My bike usually starts well within 5 kicks (more like 2 or 3.) Lot 'o kicks to get it started is a sign of scary things to come.

4 kicks max is what it took but one of the valves (no granted this was my first time checking so i could have fudged) was at 0. SO i did in fact take it to a shop. Otherwise the bike was running like it normally does......AWESOME! So i will know more by thursday night..... Hope all goes well.

-Evan

Well Evan,
I hope you can trust that shop because your valves were not at zero. A 4 kicks max and running awesome ? No way. One thing for sure is you're going to find out if you can trust them,because if they give you some song and dance about needing valves,etc., then you'll know what they're all about.
If I were you I'd go pick it up,but maybe you can trust them to tell you the truth, or at least part of the truth.
If you look at that picture that shows the right mark on the right crankcase cover access,and it's lined up right at the cam tower,AND the cam is pointed towards the rear ,then you're ready to check clearances.
Good luck. Doug

[email protected] wrote:Well Evan, I hope you can trust that shop...

Evan, if I were you, make sure the mechanics note on the ticket the before and after clearances and any shim values they claim had to be installed (if any.) Then, I would take the bike home and not even think about riding it until you've had a chance to tear that cover off and check the valves yourself. At least this way, assuming the dealer did their job correctly, you'll know EXACTLY what properly adjusted valves feel like when checking them. It will sure help to take the guesswork out of how they should "feel" when working with the feeler gauges.

By doing that, you'll gain confidence with your skills and save money on future checks. The money you save over the cost of three or four valve checks/adjustments at a dealer (assuming about $100 or so plus the hassle of loading up, transporting, and getting back home,) will nearly pay for your new top end when you need it...and you will need it eventually.

I hope your dealer is honest and that it all turns out good for you!