Help me help my son
  • mrbandit
    Posts: 1
    Joined: Mon Jan 16, 2017 12:09 pm

    Help me help my son

    by mrbandit » Mon Jan 16, 2017 1:00 pm

    Good afternoon everyone, My name is Mike and I'm trying to help my son complete a build on a project bike. First off, I'm not a rider. I am however a competent do it yourselfer with two car restorations under my belt. I am not easily intimidated by a problem, but I know when I'm at the point where I can make things worse.

    My son has had a 150f and currently rides a 150r. He really likes helping me work on cars and his bike, so he wanted to see if he could take on a project. We just picked up a project 230f bike that runs and is mostly there. When we tested the bike it ran, but didn't seem to smoke all that much. Once we had the bike how we tore it down to the frame and engine and cleaned everything. During the test ride the choke was left on a little bit as the seller said it would cut off. I figured the carb needed a rebuild. I purchased a kit off ebay and my son did a minor rebuild. He replaced the three jets, float needle and replaced a missing white shroud inside the float bowl. Its probably worth mentioning that the seller rigged up the float needle with a piece of wire. It seemed to function, but it looked bad. After my sons' minor rebuild the bike started up instantly, but smokes and smells very rich. Oh and it bogged if you attempted WOT. I took the carb back off and verified that the new jets were labeled the same size. The jet that screws into the center shaft was listed as 102 on the new and old, but the new looked like a larger center hole. I decided to clean and reinstall all of the old jet parts along with a through cleaning of the housing, ports, etc... The bike sounds better now and does not bog, but the smoking and rich smell persists. The smoke it grey in color. Would this be an indication of the carb still not right or would you say the rings are probably shot.

    I joked with my son that maybe it didn't smoke because it was low on oil that night. We changed the oil just before the carb rebuild and not a lot of oil drained out. I will also add that this bike was not well maintained before we bought it, so I'm sure new rings and such would definitely help. The only issue is cash. My son doesn't have a lot left after the purchase and after spending $250 on parts and supplies I'm in budget mode.
  • User avatar
    crfsonly
    Owner
    Posts: 9639
    Joined: Thu Apr 01, 2004 3:45 pm

    by crfsonly » Thu Feb 16, 2017 6:38 pm

    The problem with the term "jetting" is it gives the impression that you can change a jet or jets and dial the carb in. Both the main and pilot circuit are more than just jets. The pilot circuit comprises a jet and a fuel screw. The fuel screw adjust the output of the pilot jet. The main circuit comprises the main jet and the needle. The 230F does not have the correct needle and must be replaced to get the proper air/fuel mixture. I highly recommend our PowerUp jetting kit:

    http://www.crfsonly.com/catalog/product ... ts_id/3198

    Middle clip position on the needle and start with the larger main jet. Get the optional fuel screw and adjust it 2 turns out and adjust from there.

    Ken
    OEM Parts for Honda - Yamaha - Suzuki - Kawasaki: http://yeltrik.com
    _________________
    CRF Parts and Accessories: http://crfsonly.com
  • Aussiecrf230
    Posts: 1572
    Joined: Fri Jan 06, 2006 11:11 pm

    by Aussiecrf230 » Sat Feb 18, 2017 6:08 pm

    Welcome to the site.
    Has the baffle from the exhaust been removed?
    Is the a snorkel on top of the air box or just the hole with rubber edging. This will really determine if you need to make jetting changes at this stage.

    I would start by ensuring the idle mixture is correct and adjust idle fuel screw. If it is a later 230 it won't have the slot head but the D head. People have successfully used a electrical connector(where the wire goes in) by heating the plastic and pressing over the D head so it can be adjusted. The CRFs Only fuel screw makes it a lot easier to adjust, but there needs to be something better.

    How was the air cleaner and is there any dirt in the boot and carb. This is where you would get wear to rings from for the most part.

    If you can start it and warm it up then do a compression test, should be 188 PSI if cranking at 450rpm. Make sure the battery is charged before doing test. This should give some idea on the rings/valves.

    There is an oil centrifugal filter under the clutch cover (need special tool of course)that I would recommend you clean as well. this is where the factory manual comes in handy.

    Let us know how you go and best of luck.
    Ray
    Australia

    CRF230F 2004
    C30F Power Up needle
    Mains 132
    Idle 45
    2 turns out
    Baffle out, Screens In

    It starts,it runs,it gets to where all CRFs can get to without the valve or valve plate dramas

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