Changing Fork Seals
  • User avatar
    Crfuzz
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    Joined:Tue Mar 11, 2008 6:14 pm
    Changing Fork Seals

    by Crfuzz » Sun Apr 13, 2008 4:12 pm

    My forks are leaking oil so I bought some fork seals to change, if anyone could give me instructions or a diagram or something on how to do it, it'd be great. I'm pretty sure I know how to do it, but I need some reassurance.

    thanks in advance.
  • Asmith
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    by Asmith » Sun Apr 13, 2008 4:28 pm

    You dont need any special tools for the 230 forks.
    You can use a 1-1/8 inch PVC fitting to drive the seals in.
    Oil level should be 5.7 inches (stock) from the top with the springs out and the fork colapsed.

    Tools required 10mm and 17 mm wrench to remove the front wheel
    17mm to remove the fork cap.
    12 mm to loosen the fork clamps.

    Remove the front wheel.
    Remove the brake assy.
    Remove the forks.
    Remove the fork cap.
    Remove the springs.
    Remove the oil.
    Remove the boots.
    Hold the fork slider in a vise with soft jaws or shop towels to protect it.
    Remove the fork socket bolt and sealing washer from the bottom of the forks.
    Remove the fork piston and rebound spring from inside the slider.
    Carefully remove the dust seal.
    Remove the stopper ring.
    Using the lower part of the forks as a "slide hammer", separate the two pieces.
    Replace the oil seal.

    Note: Leave the old oil seal on the slider and put the new one on. When you use the PVC to seat the new seal, hit it against the old seal to avoid damaging the new one. Remove the old one once new one is in place.

    Assemble in reverse.
    Use a higher weight oil if you want to stiffen up the forks. I believe stock is 7wt, maybe try 10wt or 15 wt.

    Good luck, should be about a 2 hour process, 3 with beer breaks.
  • User avatar
    Crfuzz
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    by Crfuzz » Sun Apr 13, 2008 4:39 pm

    Thanks for the help, but change the beer breaks to Dr. Pepper breaks, lol.
  • CRF916
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    by CRF916 » Sun Apr 13, 2008 5:59 pm

    You gotta sticky this AS.
    0'6 CRF450XXX

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  • itsgrady
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    by itsgrady » Sun Apr 13, 2008 6:08 pm

    Or apple juice breaks!
    2009 KX100
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  • pillitiere
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    by pillitiere » Thu Aug 14, 2008 10:46 pm

    I just did mine. I had never done it before on any bike, so the first one took me a while. I did pretty much what the instructions above said, but before I took the forks off I loosened the cap at the top (using the fork clamps as a vise). Also, I didn't have PVC or a fork seal hammer(?) so I went to my mechanic with the forks empty and asked if they could set the seals for me. I tipped him $20.

    from what I gather some after market forks have inner fork oil and outer fork oil, I could be mistaken though. but our 230F forks (stock) don't. WHen I first did it I thought I screwed up by emptying all of the oil. but all was good.

    Also, don't be like me and forget to put the dust covers on before you put everything back together haha...

    lastly, I couldn't find how much oil to put in on the net any where, so I will add it here...

    CRF230F fork Oil capacity (stock) is 12.6oz.
  • Aussiecrf230
    Posts:1964
    Joined:Fri Jan 06, 2006 11:11 pm

    by Aussiecrf230 » Fri Aug 15, 2008 3:51 am

    Loosening the caps whilst in the clamps is a good idea, just make sure the top clamp bolts (near the thread of the cap) is loose or you can strip the cap.
    Ray
    Australia

    CRF230F 2004
    C30F Power Up needle
    Mains 132
    Idle 45
    2 turns out
    Baffle out, Screens In

    It starts,it runs,it gets to where all CRFs can get to without the valve or valve plate dramas
  • dsrpilot
    Posts:251
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    by dsrpilot » Sun Sep 05, 2010 5:02 pm

    Anybody have this procedure with pictures perchance?

    I just sprung a leak in my right fork...
    '12 CRF450X - son
    '09 CRF250X and 2010 F800GS lowered - Wife
    '12 CRF250X and 2012 F800GS - me
  • dsrpilot
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    by dsrpilot » Tue Sep 07, 2010 9:02 am

    I found a link on another forum (you know ThumperTalk) about cleaning between the tube and the seal with a thin piece of plastic. MSR makes one, but they suggested using an old negative strip from photos. Some of you may be too young to know what those are, but I tried it on my bike, and thus far it's holding.

    I couldn't get the plastic in at first, but when I did I went around a couple of times. I didn't see any visible gunk come out from the strip, but did clean off the top of the seal where there was a lot of stuff.
    '12 CRF450X - son
    '09 CRF250X and 2010 F800GS lowered - Wife
    '12 CRF250X and 2012 F800GS - me
  • BRP
    Posts:11
    Joined:Fri Aug 06, 2010 8:55 pm

    by BRP » Thu Sep 09, 2010 8:17 pm

    Maybe I do mine wrong (have two 230s) but no need to remove the forks from the clamps to replace the seals.
    follow the directions above, but leave the forks on.
    loosen the top clamps, remove the spring, take out the
    6mm allen head cap screw, drain the oil into a big gulp cup. Jerk the bottom leg off and remove the parts and reassemble. A air or electric impact gun makes taking the 6mm allen out alot easier.

    I run 12.9 oz of 15wt oil (10 wt is factory) in each, and use some 3/8 drive shallow 7/8 impact snap on sockets as spacers on top of the spring. Helps the front end alot for my petite 235 pound frame.
  • [email protected]
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    Joined:Wed Sep 19, 2012 9:18 am

    by [email protected] » Thu Sep 20, 2012 8:00 am

    I am in my fork seal project and cant get the bottom tube seperated from the top. How hard do i supposedly pull on them
  • SLC
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    Joined:Thu Sep 06, 2012 8:00 pm

    by SLC » Thu Sep 20, 2012 9:40 pm

    Just to be sure, you have removed the dust seal and the wire retaining clip below that right?
    After that just give the tube 7 or 8 good solid yanks and they'll pop apart. I just did mine last week and was amazed how simple it all was.
    BTW the stock oil listed for my 2007 230f was 10 weight.
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    riddler9
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    by riddler9 » Fri Sep 21, 2012 7:59 pm

    SLC wrote:Just to be sure, you have removed the dust seal and the wire retaining clip below that right?
    After that just give the tube 7 or 8 good solid yanks and they'll pop apart. I just did mine last week and was amazed how simple it all was.
    BTW the stock oil listed for my 2007 230f was 10 weight.


    if you have yanked on it with the retaining ring still in replace the bushings - guarantee that the lip of the lower will be torn up.
    Official Lurker

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  • [email protected]
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    by [email protected] » Mon Sep 24, 2012 11:50 am

    Thank you i ended up taking them to a cycle shop he should my and got the tool from him to push the seals back in. The seals came later in the day and came with instructions. Pro Moly leak proofs

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