~ wrote:Very easy to do. Remember, there is a spring, washer and o-ring that go into the carb on the end of the fuel screw in that order. They will not come with your new fuel screw. You will need to make sure that you don't lose them when taking out the old screw.
CRF230RiPPER wrote:~ wrote:Very easy to do. Remember, there is a spring, washer and o-ring that go into the carb on the end of the fuel screw in that order. They will not come with your new fuel screw. You will need to make sure that you don't lose them when taking out the old screw.
by the way ~, do you know the proper procedure for adjusting the fuel screw along with the idle screw to make sure I'm getting the bike to peak running condition? I was told how to do it once before but forgot. Thanks for any help you can give in advance!
mr50 wrote::?: HOW DO YOU OPEN THE AIR BOX DO YOU HAVE TO REJET IT IF YOU OPEN THE AIR BOX ?I CHANGED THE FACTORY AIR FILTER TO A SPONGE FILTER IT FELT LIKE IT ADDED ANOTHER SHOT OF JUICE TO IT.
gal8x wrote:I use needle nosed pliers. Set your idle a little high to make it easier to hear changes in rpm.
The pilot jet will help with the popping. When I put the T-4 pipe on the popping vanished entirely.
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