Who
needs a skid plate...You do!
  You
only track ride and so there's no reason for a skid
plate right? Yeah right. Have you ever looked at the
rails and case of a year old track-only bike? It's
not a pretty sight. Let's face it, every track has
its share of rocks that will find you and jumps that
you will eventually case. Not to mention the occasional
task of running over a bike or two in the first turn
of a race. Oh, sure like that never happens.
The
two most expensive parts to replace on your bike are
the frame (~$1200) and crankcases (~$400). A $69.95
insurance policy from Work Connection, in the form
of their skid plate, will help prevent this expensive
damage, not to mention a very sad day at the track.
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Quick
Facts |
|
Manufacturer:
Works Connection http://www.worksconnection.com
Price:
$69.95
Weight:
17.5 oz. including mounting hardware.
Hardware
Included: Everything required for a
quick installation.
Tools
Required: 8mm socket for front clamp
bolts; 10mm socket for engine guards; philips
drive for rear clamp bolts.
Instructions:
Yes |
 Alright
already back to the skid plate itself. The first thing
you'll notice is the typical Works Connection quality
and craftsmanship. The finish of the aluminum plate
is excellent. The clamping brackets are also aluminum
and are squared off to match the square tubing of
the frame. The bolts and screws are stainless to prevent
corrosion. All the necessary mounting hardware is
included as are detailed instructions.
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The Podium |
- Provides
protection of frame rails and bottom of crankcases
- Vent
holes in front reduce weight and increase
air flow around engine
- Super
strong
- Excellent
design, quality of materials and workmanship
- Super
strong
- Includes
foam insert to prevent mud from collecting
- Quick
and easy installation
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|
The Pits |
- For
serious off-road protection the optional engine
guards would be necessary.
- May
want to modify the stock right engine guard.
See installation notes.
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The
only way installation could have been easier is if
someone installed it for me. Seriously, it was that
easy. I know we've all wrestled with skid plates in
the past but you won't with this one ...especially
if you follow these tips:
Installation
Notes
-
The left rear clamping bracket is different from
the other three. Make sure you remember that when
installing.
- Remove
the stock plastic engine guards.
- Use
a dab of Loc-Tite #242 on the two rear screws and
two front bolts.
- Place
the two rear clamps in place. Notice the holes in
the skid plate to get a general idea of where they
need to be placed
- Using
a phillips screwdriver BIT hold the skid plate in
position and thread on one of rear screws. The bit
is short which gets you closer to the screw giving
you more control. Plus, it's thin allowing you to
easily spin it with your finger tips. Don't tighten
this screw just yet Mr. Over-Achiever!
- Once
the first bolt is started, work on the second rear
screw using the same method. Keeping both rear screws
somewhat loose will ease installation of the front
clamp brackets.
- Place
the front brackets on the rail.
- Slide
each bracket up the rail to its proper position
and install the bolt using an 8mm socket (without
driver).
 Now
do a finally alignment of the skid plate to the
rails and tighten the screws and bolts.- Replace
the stock engine guards. You may want to trim the
stock right front engine guard as the clamping bracket
interferes with it somewhat. I didn't think this
was necessary but you might (see photo at right).
The Works Connection engine guards are designed
to fit perfectly with or without the skid plate.
That's
it...now get out there and case some of those jumps,
get rock-roosted, or search for some searious trail
trash...and do it with a smile...Works Connection
has you covered, literally!
CRF's
Only Staff Review November 2004
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