Rekluse, Friend or Foe?

Let's begin this review with some frequently asked questions and answers about the Rekluse z-Start Auto Clutch.

1. "What is a Rekluse z-Start Auto Clutch?"

Basically speaking, the Rekluse z-Start is a centrifugal pressure plate that replaces the stock, manually controlled pressure plate. The Rekluse pressure plate uses centrifugal force to automatically and smoothly engage and disengage the clutch. With the optional Perch Adjuster (see review), however, the rider can still disengage the clutch at will.

2. "How difficult is the z-Start to install?"

Rekluse says that most people will spend about one hour to read the manual and install the z-Start clutch the first time, and then only about 30 minutes for a second similar installation. I don't think so... at least not with the instructions that accompanied my z-Start. I'm familiar with tools, motorcycles in general, and motorcycle clutches, and it took me a bit over three hours to install the z-Start and the optional Perch Adjuster. This included taking many notes and photos for this review, and chasing numerous errors and omissions in the instructions . With better instructions, the job could be much quicker and easier. I've written an instructions supplement sheet for the Honda CRF250X, available free of charge to anyone about to perform this installation (see supplement). I also sent a copy to Rekluse, and I've since been told that the new instructions will be improved. Performing a second installation on the same kind of motorcycle, however, would indeed be much easier and faster.

3. "Does the z-Start require me to modify my existing clutch parts?"

Absolutely not. Numerous stock parts are replaced with parts from the Rekluse kit, but none require any modifications. You don't even have to remove the clutch basket. Also, you can just as easily remove the Rekluse parts and go back to the stock clutch if you desire. However, if you do not buy and install the optional Perch Adjuster, you'll either have to modify the starter switch wiring in the CRF250X clutch lever perch, or leave the clutch lever in place to act like a starter switch. (Note: The optional Perch Adjuster requires removing or making a very simply modification to the Honda rubber boot that fits over the clutch perch assembly.)

4. "What is the z-Start External Adjuster?"

This is a spring and threaded-shaft mechanism that allows adjusting the auto clutch without having to disassemble anything. As far as I've been able to determine, no other auto clutch manufacturer allows external adjustments, so the clutch cover has to come off and some clutch pack disassembly is required. This not only makes the Rekluse clutch more convenient, it also makes it more likely that the rider will fine tune it correctly instead of settling for "close enough". The Rekluse clutch can be adjusted (for experimental reasons if nothing else) on the trail in less than a minute. Who wants to stop, kill the engine, lay the bike over on it's left side, remove the brake pedal, remove the clutch cover, disassemble part of the pressure plate to make the internal adjustments (assuming you brought the optional parts with you), and then put it all back together again while out on the trail? Not me! You won't use the standard External Adjuster, however, if you install the optional Perch Adjuster, which I highly recommend both for safety and convenience.

5. "What external adjustments can be made?"

The standard External Adjuster and the optional Perch Adjuster allows you to adjust the engine RPM at which the clutch begins to engage (stall speed), and how gradually or sudden the clutch's full engagement takes place (engagement rate). Other auto clutches require removing the brake pedal, removing the clutch cover, disassembling the pressure plate, and changing some internal parts to affect these adjustments. Since fine tuning is required for varying riding styles and changing terrain or track conditions to get the most satisfaction from the auto clutch, an easy way of making adjustments allows you make them more frequently, and improves the likelihood that such adjustments will be made. Many riders ignore these final adjustments when they are difficult to make, so Rekluse engineered the z-Start to allow easy and simple external adjustments with no disassembly required.

6. "Can I still use my stock clutch lever to override the z-Start?"

You can if you install the optional Perch Adjuster. Then you keep your stock clutch lever, perch, and cable, which allows you to disengage the clutch at any time, plus you can make clutch adjustments at the handlebar without even getting off the bike! Note, however, that the Perch Adjuster is only for bikes using clutch cables. It won't work on bikes with hydraulic clutches.

7. "I'm new to dirt bikes. Will the z-Start help me?"

Absolutely! The Rekluse z-Start eliminates two of the biggest problems beginners have to deal with... clutch control and engine stalling. Learning to operate the clutch properly in slow, technical terrain and on steep hills is often a difficult chore even for experienced riders.

8. " I race motocross. Will the z-Start help me?"

Very likely, yes. The z-Start clutch allows the rear tire to get better traction during acceleration (starts and from corners), and will improve any rider's control on rough ground. It also helps prevent arm pump and overall fatigue to some extent. Motocross riders also benefit from being able to tune the clutch action for varying track conditions, and from eliminating most instances of stalling the engine. Even when a rider falls (never you or me, of course), the engine is far more likely to remain running.

9. "I'm a woods racer. Will the z-Start help me?"

Like you wouldn't believe! The slower and rougher the trail, the better the z-Start works! You no longer have to worry about precisely balancing the clutch and throttle action to keep the engine running without applying too much power. Instead you can focus your attention on the obstacles facing you. And if you have to stop or slow to a crawl on a difficult hill, the z-Start eliminates engine stalling, and allows you to get moving again with much less tendency to spin the tire or loop the bike! The z-Start really shines in the woods, on hills, and on rough terrain.

10. "Does the Rekluse z-Start have a warranty?"

You bet, and a shockingly good one! First of all, how about a 30-day money back satisfaction guarantee? How many companies have that kind of confidence in their products? Try to find a deal like that from an exhaust system manufacturer or aftermarket shock company. If you're not happy with the z-Start for any reason during the first 30 days, let them know and they will arrange for a return and a full refund of your purchase price (taxes, shipping, etc. not included). If you do like it and keep it, every component in the kit is warranted for one year against defects in material and/or workmanship.

11. "Will the z-Start wear out my clutch discs faster than a regular clutch?"

If ridden properly, there's no reason to think so. An abusive rider, of course, can wear out any clutch. Note, however, that the z-Start allows you ride in a higher gear even when you shouldn't, while a standard clutch wouldn't allow it. Proper gear selection is always important. Depending on how you use it, the z-Start could shorten or extend your clutch life, but it actually eliminates many opportunities to abuse a stock clutch.

12. "Does the z-Start require more maintenance than a regular clutch?"

Yes, but only a little. Rekluse recommends checking the Installed Gap occasionally, but this takes less than 20 minutes with a clean bike. They also recommend disassembling the entire z-Start auto clutch assembly for inspection every 200 hours (or 100 hours for very aggressive riders).

13. "How much does the Rekluse z-Start auto clutch cost?"

Different kits for different bikes have different prices, but the one for the CRF250X lists for $449, and the optional Perch Adjuster runs another $99. Both, however, are discounted here at CRF's Only. Other auto-clutch kits are available for $499 and $995 (if they have one for your bike), and they don't offer a 30-day money back satisfaction guarantee, or have external adjusters.

Installation - Tips and Tricks!

Now let's examine the installation. Rekluse says it can be done in approximately an hour. I agree only if you're doing it the second time on a similar bike. The first time you do it, you tend to become confused by different terms and descriptions, and it takes a good 30 minutes just to study the instructions. The instructions do not always use the same terminology as Honda (or you or me) to describe a part, which leads to further confusion. Having enjoyed the benefits of modern technology and improved mechanics, I've not worked on a motorcycle clutch in well over 20 years, but I still know a fiber clutch disk from a metal clutch plate, but neither Honda or Rekluse always calls them that!

Next, the instructions include a list of required tools (cough cough), but the very first tool you'll need (needle nose pliers) is not on the list! That doesn't instill a great deal of confidence in the nervous installer. Then in Step 5 they warn you not to lose the stock throw-out ball spacer (a small ball bearing). Naturally, I was worried sick when I couldn't find mine, so I spent over 20 minutes searching my garage floor to find it. I finally gave up and turned to the Honda parts manual to order a replacement, only to discover there's no such part in the CRF250X! (Yeah, you're laughing now, knobby nose, but it wasn't funny at the time!)

I see no point in describing here, each and every problem with the written instructions. Even if you read every word, you'd forget them by the time you got around to installing your Rekluse clutch. I have written a supplement sheet that describes the problems I found, which and be viewed here. I sent a copy to Rekluse, too, hoping they will see it as an opportunity to improve their instructions.

Oh, and here's an assembly tip they should but didn't tell us. The kit comes with 40 individual ball bearings in two little bags, 10 steel and 30 tungsten carbide. We're told to install them in a precise order (three tungsten, then one steel... ten times). They even warn us (and wisely so, I might add) to do this step away from the bike, so that any dropped balls don't fall into the engine. What they don't tell us is how to tell steel balls from tungsten balls if they're accidentally mixed! They're the exact same size and color, so despite their weight difference, they're hard to tell apart. Anyone care to guess? No? A magnet will attract a steel ball like a scantily clad blonde attracts dirt bikers, while a tungsten ball ignores magnets altogether.

Now let's look at the parts and pieces in the Rekluse z-Start kit. The first hang up I encountered is that the pressure plate parts are so beautifully machined, it seems a crying shame to hide them behind the clutch cover! Believe me on this, Rekluse provides some truly exquisite pieces of metal artwork! I was extremely impressed with the quality and workmanship that went into making the top plate, pressure plate, and lower assembly. The parts fit and tolerances are nothing short of superb. After examining these pieces, some of the confidence I'd lost to the instructions began coming back. Whoever programmed the milling machine that made these parts certainly knew what they were doing! (I love seeing truly great craftsmanship, don't you?)

The second problem I encountered is actually another shortcoming in the instructions, not the part itself. The lower assembly plate has TWO sets of five holes, only one of which will line up with the screws. Not knowing this ahead of time, I almost panicked when the plate didn't match the screws the first time I tried it. Just rotate the plate about 1/2", and the next set of holes fits perfectly. (Whew!)

Assembly Tip 1: When examining the parts, and especially when removing the ball bearings from their bags (one bag for tungsten balls, and one bag for steel balls), place them on a clean terrycloth towel to prevent them from rolling around and falling off your work bench. Losing even one tiny screw (and there are over 25) or one ball bearing (count 40 of those) means you'll have to postpone the assembly until the parts can be replaced. Be careful!

Assembly Tip 2: Immediately after removing the bike's clutch cover (and all of this is done with the bike lying on its left side, with the right side facing up), cover everything around the clutch assembly with tape, rags, and whatever it takes, to absolutely prevent any dropped item from falling down into the crankcase, or into the area between the engine and your skid plate. Dropping a small part into the crankcase could require a complete disassembly of the engine! You don't want that. Cover everything but the clutch assembly itself! Just do it!

Okay, once the installation is complete, follow the instructions to the letter when it comes to making the basic adjustments prior to starting the engine and testing the results. Read the separate instructions on Break-In Tuning and Maintenance Guide. Read the separate sheet on Safety Warnings. Read, study, and understand it! Let's not blow all our hard work by getting into a hurry right at the end. And when the instructions call for revving the engine at 4500 RPM, don't worry about it. Just rev the engine somewhere in mid-range.

Perch Adjuster

At this point I want to say that I so highly recommend buying and installing the optional $99 Perch Adjuster, I'll risk upsetting the good people at Rekluse by saying I consider it a "Must Have"! The benefits of the Perch Adjuster are so huge and far reaching, I feel certain that anyone installing the z-Start clutch without adding the Perch Adjuster will later regret it. It is soooooo worth the extra money, even if it means another month of beans and franks to afford it. Not only does it give the rider the ability to make clutch adjustments from the saddle with the engine still running, it also allows overriding the centrifugal pressure plate and being able to disengage the clutch at any time. This is not only convenient, but to me it represents some important safety considerations as well. I will add, however, that the Perch Adjuster can be added later if you at first install the z-Start without it. (But don't! Buy the Perch Adjuster with the z-Start, and install them at the same time! Just do it!)

First Ride Impressions

Now let's try it out. The Rekluse z-Start and Perch Adjuster have been installed and adjusted, so now it's time to ride. Arriving at the riding area with my buddy Ron, I got all dressed up in my battle gear (it's us against the trees, y'know... and they outnumber us!), filled the gas tank, checked the tire pressures, checked the chain adjustment, checked my fanny pack contents, and generally did everything I could think of to delay the test ride! What if it doesn't work? What if I messed up something and the whole thing explodes? What if it works but I don't like it? Yes, there were doubts and mixed feelings aplenty. But when every excuse was exhausted (I even checked the clear blue sky for any signs of hurricanes or tornados... just in case.), I finally climbed aboard (Honda really should provide a step ladder with the 250X), made dead certain that the transmission was in neutral, and then stabbed the starter button. The engine roared to life. Then I climbed back off and went behind the bushes for you know what. Nervous kidney, y'know.

Back aboard the running bike, I blipped the throttle a few times just to enjoy the snappy response from the quick revving engine, and then let it idle again. Nervously, because I don't generally do anything this stupid, I poked the shift lever down into first gear... without first pulling in the clutch lever! I was holding on for dear life, ready for the uncontrollable lunge that would surely throw my favorite body (well, except for Britney Spears) ungraciously from the bike. "Clunk", went the shift lever as it engaged low gear, and then, all of a sudden, and totally without warning... nothing happened. The engine was still idling nicely, the bike hadn't moved, and best of all, I was still alive and in one piece. "Okay", I said to Ron. "It works great. Let's go home."

Ron wouldn't let me off the bike, so I nervously turned the loud handle a hair and a half, and again braced myself for terrible things to come. The bike began to slowly and gently move forward. I was so surprised I almost forgot to pick up my right foot! But with my confidence meter now soaring upward (at least it hadn't blown up), I gave it a tad more throttle, and the bike began to move a tad faster. Hey now! This is cool!

Now I'm in the woods and on the rough and rocky slope leading up to the first section of rabbit trail (so called because it's too narrow and tight even for self-respecting deer). The first thing I notice is that once the engine RPM is well above idle, the clutch gradually engages as solidly as a standard clutch. I continue along the trail dodging trees and rocks until I get to the point where I can really open it up and rocket along at maybe 15 mph instead of 5. Now we're cooking! I blip the throttle closed for an instant, shift into second gear, and snap the throttle open again. Whoa! The front end never came up like that before! I must have launched off a rock I didn't notice. Let's stay alert and not concentrate too much on the new clutch, dummy.

The next fond surprise was in discovering that I could now use second gear in corners previously too tight for anything but first. The bogging sensation I'd normally expect from trying to accelerate from a walking speed in second gear was replaced by a smooth and steady pull that soon turned into hard acceleration as the engine revved up and grabbed more horsepower. Whoa! The front end started climbing skyward again! Did I overlook another rock or something? Pay attention to the trail, fool!

Oh, there's that 8" log ahead. Let's loft the front wheel over it and stand up to make it easier on the suspension. I closed the throttle a bit, and then snapped it back open as I simultaneously tugged lightly on the bars. Whoa! I wanted 10" of lift, not 30! What's going on here? I decided to continue cautiously on until I reached a smooth flat area (a rarity in this riding area). There I began experimenting with lifting the front wheel, finding that it came up easier and higher than ever before. Apparently the few extra ounces in the Rekluse clutch gives just enough extra flywheel effect to reduce wheel spin during hard acceleration. I like anything that makes riding easier, with less exertion and less energy burned. For me this means more riding time. Like it? Hell, I love it!

When railing around some berms in corners, at first I didn't like the bike's new tendency to raise up when the throttle is rolled on. But then I realized that it stemmed from expecting wheel spin that didn't occur! Once I began attacking the berms without expecting wheel spin, then the bike stayed on line and shot from the turn almost like a fast rider would do. And that's not normal for me! Making sure Ron could see me, I even began lifting the front wheel as I shot off a berm while still leaned over! This is fun!

We finally arrived at my first destination for testing the Rekluse clutch; a rocky hill that Ron calls "Oh No Hill!". Not even Dick Burleson in his 1980 prime could charge up this hill with good momentum (That may not be true, but I choose to believe it). It has an evil mixture of rock steps up to 16" tall, off-camber turns around trees with exposed roots the size of your arm, ruts that grab the footpegs of lesser bikes, and a lot of hill bearings (loose rocks from marble to baseball size). Some of these obstacles defy any attempt to maintain momentum! It's a cruel ride, but fun if you can handle it. The stock 250X hates it, because your forward speed drops to about zero at several points, some of which then require instant acceleration to build enough momentum to climb a rock step or steep rise. This hill is colorfully decorated with broken levers and pretty shards of motorcycle plastic. I love it when I'm riding the little stump puller CRF230F, but I often get caught up in the deep ruts. The 250X ignores the ruts, but hates the zero-momentum climbing turns. Its an exercise in clutch abuse on most bikes.

The Rekluse clutch makes the 250X (now a 250XAC) a little more... no, a LOT more like a trials bike than the stock clutch would ever allow. I still had to dab a foot here and there, but for the very first time ever, the 250X climbed that hill without ever coming to a stop. I could creep and crawl over the roots, then snap the front end up over the next rock, and just chug chug chug my way to the top. It was great! I wanted to go back down and do it again, and probably would have had Ron not picked up a rather painfully large rock and promised to do ugly things with it if I attempted to turn around. We went on.

Then we came to Hill 5, which consists of 100 yards of baseball and softball size rocks ever so carefully arranged on a steep slope. Power to climb the hill is not a problem. It's not that steep. Maintaining direction and momentum is the problem. Those damn hill bearings roll about so freely, you'd think they'd all be at the bottom of the hill by now, but they somehow roll back up into their original positions every night. And they usually convince your front wheel to go in every direction but straight ahead. It's great fun until you drop the bike and burn a whole day's worth of calories trying to get it up and moving again. I attacked it as usual in second gear, feathering the throttle every time the rear wheel rolled off one of nature's ball bearings. Directional control was still as great a challenge as ever, but I immediately noticed that I could now use second gear all the way to the top, and suffer much less wheel spin than on previous attempts when I'd have to downshift to first gear if forward momentum was threatened. I still had to work at keeping my heading, but the climb was definitely easier than ever.

Then I rode back down. At least most of the way. As usual for a steep hill with a loose surface, I dropped into low gear, kept the engine at a high idle to prevent rear wheel lockup, and then headed down carrying lots and lots of brake, using the throttle to control my speed. Somehow I allowed the engine RPM to drop all the way to idle, so the auto clutch disengaged. Then the heavy brake pressure locked the rear wheel, and I suddenly found myself accelerating down the hill with the limited control common to a sliding rear wheel (I see beginners do this all the time.). Two rolling stones later (Forgive me Mr. Jagger) I was lying in the dust trying to get comfortable on a mattress of stone, while the Honda lay nearby faithfully idling. "You okay", called Ron. "Oh shut up!", I called back. He denied it later, but I'm sure I heard him chuckling right after he mumbled something about my having an "ignorant posterior". I dragged myself to an upright position, lifted the bike, and manhandled it to the bottom of the hill. I was pooped, but I wasn't about to give Ron the satisfaction of seeing me give up. I charged back to the top, turned around, and headed down again. This time I paid more attention to keeping the engine RPM up above idle, and I arrived at the bottom of the hill upright and in good form. "Hey Ron", I called. "Yeah?", he replied. "You can kiss my (ignorant posterior)!", said I, chuckling with delight. "I'd rather kiss that than your face", he replied. (Just between you and me, the only reason I ride with this guy is because he always brings great sandwiches.)

On a longer but smoother hill with a stay-in-place surface, I began experimenting with the new clutch action. I could let the engine RPM drop to idle, which disengaged the clutch and left the rear wheel free-wheeling, but I could then re-engage the clutch by blipping the throttle to rev the engine above idle. As the Rekluse instructions warned, it the bike's speed gets too high, and then the throttle is opened to re-engage the clutch, the sudden engine braking could throw you off line (or worse), and could even damage the engine from over-revving. This is no different from doing the same dumb thing with a standard clutch, though. Letting your ground speed get too high, and then releasing the clutch in low gear would have the same results.

So, there are some differences in how the bike performs that will take some getting used to, but the advantages of the auto clutch in slow, technical terrain make a world of difference to me, and it's all for the better. Much to poor Ron's dismay, I spent the rest of the day searching out all the roughest, nastiest, and evil technical sections I could find, and thoroughly enjoying the auto clutch superiority over the now antiquated standard-clutch beast Ron was riding. I kept waiting for him to beg a ride on the Rekluse Honda, but he never did. Still, I figured I'd better be nice if I wanted a couple of those sandwiches. I stopped, climbed off the bike, and offered it to him. He's a bit height-challenged, so he had his long-legged bike shortened to match, but he accepted the offer, climbed aboard (and I mean literally 'climbed' aboard), and took off down the trail. I just stood there and waited, wondering if he'd brought any pickles. When he finally returned, he stopped and climbed off the bike without a word. I didn't ask, so we rode our own bikes back to the parking area. I brought out two bottles of cold water, Ron brought out two sandwiches that I hoped were chicken salad. I handed him a bottle of water. He took it and sat down to eat.

"Ron", I asked. "Got a sandwich for me?"

"Maybe", he replied without even looking up, "and maybe not. It all depends."

"Depends on what?", I asked.

"On whether or not you'll help me install one of them Rekluse clutches in my bike."

It wasn't the chicken salad I'd hoped for, but it was still pretty good. Ron ordered his Rekluse a few days later.

Then came race day. Bob, on his KTM 351 4-stroke, and I were one of the four ghost rider teams. We'd ride around the course helping riders whenever we could. I looked forward to it. But then, just minutes before the race began, it started raining! The hard trails got slick, the soft trails turned muddy, and the swamp trail became a part-time parking lot for muddy motorcycles! As usual, this slows the riding speed considerably, which almost always means riding in a lower gear. Cruelly for such slick conditions, a lower gear means more torque to the rear wheel, which means even more slipping and sliding. I put up with it for nearly 30 minutes before it finally dawned on me that the Rekluse clutch would allow using a higher gear. That meant less slipping and sliding, which also allowed more speed. Where most riders were madly spinning and throwing mud everywhere, I was hooking up and accelerating smoothly. Yeah, I eventually got a little overconfident and wound up with one end of the handlebars resting deep in the mud, but even then the engine never died. Nor did I have to fight with the clutch lever while dragging the bike upright again. I just climbed back on, brushed the mud off the handgrip, and rode on to my next crash. Yes, there were more. With 406 riders making several laps around the course, it got downright nasty! By the end of lap two, there were no blue, green, orange, red, or yellow bikes any more, just lots of brown, brown, brown. And some were more brown than others!

Three times that day we had to tow dead bikes from the trails to one of the service roads. Bob towed the first one, and it was a real ordeal with much spinning and sliding. It was my turn next, so I decided to use 2nd gear and let the Rekluse handle the necessary clutch slipping. That turned out to be so easy, I took the third tow as well. Nothing to it!

The only bad thing about having the Rekluse clutch that rainy day was that I'm sure I'd have quit sooner without it, and then maybe I'd have gotten home before dark. Instead, the auto-clutch made riding so much easier and less tiring, I stayed longer and rode further. Come to think of it, I guess that means I had more fun! What a deal! Thanks, Rekluse.

Closing Note

I agreed to review the Rekluse z-Start auto clutch as a favor to the owner of the CRF's Only. Before accepting the review, however, I made sure that it was okay to sell the auto-clutch after the review, since I was dead-certain I wasn't going to like it. I've been riding and racing dirt bikes longer than many of you have been sucking air (my first motocross was in early 1969), and I wasn't looking forward to losing control of the clutch. The problems I encountered with the instructions did nothing to improve my expectations, either. I was so sure I wasn't going to like it, or recommend it for experienced competition riders, that I removed my clutch perch rubber cover rather than modify it. I wanted to keep it stock for the stock clutch setup I would surely go back to. Sure enough, I was not fond of the auto-clutch the first few minutes I rode with it. After about 10 minutes, though, I began to concede that maybe there really was an advantage or two after all. By the 20 minute mark, I began considering leaving the auto- clutch in place at least a week or two before switching back. After that my impressions became cloudy. I quickly came to love the z-Start on up-hills and in nasty terrain, but hated it on down- hills. Then I learned how easy it was to control on down-hills, so my only remaining complaint was not being able to park it in gear on a hill. I later added a 12" strap of 3/4" wide double-sided Velcro near the center of the handlebars, so I could wrap it around the front brake lever while parked. That left me with nothing to dislike for a while. But then I remembered that I won't be able to use the Perch Adjuster on my KTM 200. It has a hydraulic clutch actuator, so it doesn't use a cable, but it IS going to have a Rekluse z-Start clutch! I'm sold on it! In fact, I'll be the first one to say "I told you so!" when brand new bikes come from the factory with auto-clutches, probably like those currently found on utility-type ATV's.

Review by: Gordon L. Banks, October 2004
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