2004 CRF250R Won't Start D:

[KuntryQuestTSi]

Hope it works out for you, keep us posted.

[Loganm]

I give up.

Ok, the bike runs. It's really hard to start though, I think that could be the carb, or the cam chain tensioner, as the valve clearances are all in spec.

The holes that the cam chain tensioner bolts up to are stripped out, and they need helicoiled, which requires taking the whole cylinder off.

On top of that the bike leaks oil out of the head cover, reason being that one of the holes that it bolts into is stripped out, it also needs a helicoil, doesn't involve removing the head, but I have to anyways for the cam chain tensioner.

The bike will not idle. I got it to sorta idle once, but it's so hard to start that I can't really mess with it. Other than that it seems to run out alright.

This is really alot more work that I bargained for, and with the money I've put into this bike i could've bought one that already ran and was a 2 stroke (soooo much easier to work on)

[dirtae]

Sorry to hear about the headache man. How come the cylinder needs to come out to helicoil the cam chain tensioner, is it because there's no room for the tap?

If the tensioner is loose then I would imagine it would be really easy for it to jump teeth on the cam gear. You definitely need to address that.

Also Don't forget that the washers on the head cover have to go on a certain way (the word 'up' on the washer obviously needs to be facing up) otherwise you will likely leak oil from those bolts (I just read somewhere on here it happened to someone)

You could order stock jets for the carb and replacing them too. Don't give up just yet!

Stock jetting for the '04 is Italicized in the bottom row, third column

[Loganm]

Ok the left side of the head cover leaks, the right side is not stripped out. I don't think I can get a tap in on the holes for the cam chain tensioner, but I think it's hard to start because it's putting too much tension on it. I mean it could be the carb that's the problem, but I doubt it. If I could get it started easily I could try turning the fuel screw, but I can't do it while the bikes running and it's really hard to start.

Wat really bums me out is that there's a 98 CR500 for sale like 4 hours away in great condition for $2500, and if I would've just saved my money I could buy it. But not everyone wants a CR500 so I might be able to get lucky and buy it in a month or so if the guy doesn't have it sold by then.

I can't even order an OEM pilot jet from Motosport, idek why. But the carb is the same as on our RMZ 250, and since it needs torn down anyways, I could take the pilot out of the carb on it and test it.

[dirtae]

I would replace jets if you can and clean and make sure the carb is working properly, and put a new spark plug if you haven't already. Also I have heard of the breather hose of the gas tank cap getting plugged up and not allowing fuel to drain into the carb. Just something to check if you haven't already.

So far you said the bike is timed correctly and valve clearances are in spec. So I would definitely suspect the carb. especially since it runs fine once it is running, but just a colossal pain in the rear to start.

[jagmotosports]

I wouldnt blame the bike as much as I would the mechanic .... you need to stay calm, get a manual, fix all the stripped bolts and start over assumming nothing is right... I feel for ya but if you got the 500 you would be asking how to fix it on the e2s forum

[Loganm]

I'm not assuming this stuff is right, I've checked it all hundreds of times. Really the only thing that I'm sure of is that something is not right in the carb. But it's so hard to start that I can't help thinking it has something to do with the valves. And since all the clearances are in check that leads me to think that the tensioner is messed up.

I'll steal the pilot jet out of our RMZ tomorrow and see if I can figure anything out.

[Loganm]

Alright, I looked at it again this morning.

If I take off the carb, header, and shock, I SHOULD be able to get a drill in there, so I won't have to take the cylinder off.

BUT, I got a text this morning from a guy wanting to do a trade for his 03 YZ125 that he had been restoring for his son, this is what he said he had done to it:

New swingarm bearings
New ccables
top end
aftermarket cylinder
pro circuit pipe and silencer
renthal bars
frame powdercoated silver

He said it just needed put back together.

Edit: I forgot to reset the cam chain tensioner when I put it back on, so that might have been why it was so hard to start.

[jagmotosports]

[Loganm]

I forgot to reset it as in it was too tight. Im sure it did not jump if it was too tight.

I got helicoils from NAPA and I ggot carb cleaner ill clean the carb and helicoil the stuff tonight and maybe assemble it too.

[crfsonly]

careful with the carb cleaner. the floating valve seal, AP diaphragm, other rubber parts in the carb will deteriorate with carb cleaner.

[Loganm]

I got carb cleanin' down brah. I've already got experience with cleanin' these carbs, no need to fret there.

More D:

I went to helicoil the cam chain tensioner, and had to take the whole top end apart. It turns out the valves were at one time hitting the piston D:. However, the valves aren't bent, and the main bearings and con rod and wrist pin are still nice and tight, I don't think anything was damaged.

I did not manage to helicoil it, and eventually just ripped them out with pliers as they wouldn't go in all the way. I've just decided to drill and tap it out for larger sized bolts. The cylinder also has some minor vertical scoring, but I can't feel it at all with my fingers, and the cross-hatching is still good, so I think I'll leave it alone.

Edit: Reason was because that gear on the timing cover on the right that I was originally using was WAY off.

[dirtae]

Kens just throwing you a heads up, if you're not careful carb cleaner can cause the floating valve seal to swell, which can cause it to idle erratically.

Since you forgot to retract the tensioner before installing it, and you did manage to get it to run and ride it, I would pull the ignition cover again to inspect the cam chain and both cam chain guides. Or at the very least I would check the tensioner to see if it is still working properly or damaged.

It might be unnecessary but thats what I would do anyway.

[Loganm]

I didn't ride it at all. I don't even think it had more than like a minute of runtime.

[dirtae]

Sorry, I thought you mentioned that you did. Nevermind then