How to: Honda CRF Showa Fork rebuild seals and oil change
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    paul turner
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    by paul turner » Mon Jan 15, 2007 7:51 pm

    Thanks Smash, very sweet How-To. I will be using it.

    paul
    If you ain't crashin', you ain't ridin' :-)
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    Ernie Pezz
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    by Ernie Pezz » Mon Jan 15, 2007 10:27 pm

    Great post Smash. I'll definitely use this when I get around to doing mine. Ernie
    My Garage:
    http://www.crfsonly.com/forum/garage.ph ... cle&CID=29

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    Eric Mac
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    by Eric Mac » Tue Feb 13, 2007 2:09 pm

    Can this be done without the seal seating tool you used? Also, what about changing out the springs? I weigh 210 without gear, and am considering putting some stiffer springs in while I am at it.
    $1500 worth of mods to realize I cant buy skill!
  • Smash

    by Smash » Tue Feb 13, 2007 2:16 pm

    Eric Mac wrote:Can this be done without the seal seating tool you used? Also, what about changing out the springs? I weigh 210 without gear, and am considering putting some stiffer springs in while I am at it.


    Everything went together well on mine so you might be able to do it without the driver, some have taled about using a piece of PVC instead. And yes you can change the springs using these steps. They fall right out when you split the halves.
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    Bamm Bamm
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    by Bamm Bamm » Wed Feb 14, 2007 10:30 am

    THANKS SO MUCH FOR THIS!! I need to do this asap.. Now where do I buy the tools?

    Thanks

    Dan
    06' CRF450X-Pro-Circuit T-4, Hot Cams Stage2, Kibblewhite valves, JDJ kit 170 main, 48 pilot, K&N A/F, PC- T-4, FMF powerbomb,R&D fuel screw, Ziptye float bowl, lots of Carbon fiber, 14T-51T, Black Plastics, mirror polished frame(now dull)
  • tony06CRF250R
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    by tony06CRF250R » Sat Feb 24, 2007 3:20 pm

    This is really excellent I used it when I changed my springs and also my mate used it to change his seals.

    Now my seals are leaking so i will use the procedure again!

    Can anyone give me a few tips on changing the inner chamber oil?

    Is it as easy as pouring it out and pumping the forks a few times, refilling and pumping few times???

    Also does anyone have experience of using 2.5Wt oil in an 06 CRF250R inner chamber???

    This oil was recommended by a Honda dealer in the UK to make the forks really plush. (I already have lighter springs 0.40 as i weight 140lbs in riding gear.)

    Cheers
    Tony
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    gks1966
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    by gks1966 » Sat Mar 03, 2007 8:33 pm

    I just noted oil leaking from one of my fork seals/dust covers. I am going to give the 35 mm film advice a go to see if I can remove dirt an debris. However, a notable amount of oil has leaked from the fork. In order to ensure my oil level is to spec, should I remove and drain the fork as described, and refill as desired, or is there a way to top-off the oil in the fork? Also, given my leak, should I completely break the fork down and check and replace the seals, or merely try the debris removal and oil replacement, and monitor the noted leak area?
    George
    Portland, OR
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    JAWS
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    by JAWS » Sat Mar 03, 2007 9:34 pm

    If you don't have the film, I have used a .005 feeler gauge with good results.
    Joe
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    '05 CRF450X,McClain suspension, Cycra Probends, Pastrana FMX Pro Tapers,BRP Sub mount & Scotts stabilizer.See carb sticky for more
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    gks1966
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    by gks1966 » Sat Mar 03, 2007 10:21 pm

    Alrighty...I'm gonna give this fork break-down/re-build a go. As for tools I don' have, what's the consensus on the fork seal driver. Is it a necessity, or could I make do without it...??? Also, if I need it, what size--the 36/37 mm, or the 47/48 mm...???
    George
    Portland, OR
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    gks1966
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    by gks1966 » Wed Mar 07, 2007 4:52 pm

    Hey Smash,

    Just completed the break-down and re-build of my front suspension. If it weren't for your post, there's no way I would have had the confidence to give it a go. All went well and it was surprisingly easier than I expected. Thanks to you. I appreciate the advice on the oil amounts and air bleed replacements.

    George
    George
    Portland, OR
  • tony06CRF250R
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    Joined: Fri Jul 28, 2006 10:44 am

    by tony06CRF250R » Sun Mar 11, 2007 5:41 am

    I just did the seal change and it all went well. I see several of you didn't use a seal driver. i am sure it can be done with a piece of pvc tube and tie wraps. the advantage of the seal driver is due to its weight the seal drives in really easily.

    I also changed the oil in the fork cap and used 2.5WT oil to make the fork more plush ( I also have ligher springs) Here is how i did it...

    Apolgies no photos....you will have to look at the diagrams in the manual!! :cry:

    1) Before dissassemblimg the fork loosen the fork cap slightly.

    2) Once the fork is fully stripped remove the fork cap and drain the oil

    3) Pump the piston rod a few times to remove all the oil.

    4) pour in 192ml of oil, then pump the piston rod several times slowly to remove air.

    5) measure the oil level with a steel rule, should be 42 to 47mm

    6) refit the fork cap and tighten

    7) pump the piston rod in by 100mm several times

    8. put the piston rod end with a rag and pump the piston rod fully several times

    9) pour out the excess oil from the spring chamber hole...should be about 17ml

    10) remove the bleed screw and turn upside down to darin any remaining oil for about 10 mins.

    11) rebuild the fork

    If anyone else can add some tips for other readers that would be great.

    Cheers
    Tony
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    gks1966
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    by gks1966 » Sun Mar 11, 2007 10:35 am

    Hey Tony,

    I agree...a seal driver is a wise investment. Although my PVC driver worked, the lack of weight made driving the seals into place more challenging. I'll be giving Ken more of my $$$ to purchase the real deal.

    George
    George
    Portland, OR
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    UteMachine
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    by UteMachine » Mon Mar 12, 2007 3:45 pm

    Thank you Smash. I just did my forks this weekend and your "how-to" made this once intimidating job, easy. I did the inners too, not very hard. Thanks!
    ImageImage

    "Kicking and a gouging in the mud, the blood, and the beer."
    -Johnny Cash
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    daymo
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    by daymo » Thu Feb 14, 2008 9:03 am

    hay just done my fork seals using your "how to" top guide made the job real easy knowing just what to do!!
    nice one keep up the good work

    Damon
  • offrdrdr
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    by offrdrdr » Mon Feb 18, 2008 11:13 am

    5) measure the oil level with a steel rule, should be 42 to 47mm


    would this be measured from the top of the inner chamber to where it bevels in? [/quote]

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